Sprint or 2lt engine?

Rich in Vancouver · Postby **Rich in Vancouver** » 21 Feb 2008 13:58

Tony has given the correct information. It sounds like all you need is a good tune-up.
As for engines, my 8v is running really well but if I had the option (no sprints here in Canada) I would go for the 16v, if for no other reason than it's so bl**dy cool!
I also want an engine that reve to 70,oooRPM like Bean'S![:D]

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

UKPhilTR7 · Postby **UKPhilTR7** » 21 Feb 2008 15:33

I must admit thought that I really do love the sound of the V8's and there are some good videos on the net. I think I will have a little look at this tonight and try to sort out the mixture. Hope this works as she was running great before

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 21 Feb 2008 18:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver

...I also want an engine that reve to 70,oooRPM like Bean'S![:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bloody unreliable rev counters [:D] ....

.... sorry, I was exaggerating a bit [:I]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

mitchelltjohn · Postby **mitchelltjohn** » 25 Feb 2008 13:46

Hi Beans, what work did you do to your 8V DHC to get 135BHP?

standard 1981 DHC

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 25 Feb 2008 15:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Dyer

Phil,
Technically speaking they are both 2ltr!! The sprint would only give you a small power gain for the work involved, plus getting a 'good one' may be a problem. If a small power gain is what your after then you could mod the engine you have now i.e. exhaust, cam, gas flowed head, carbs etc. but at a cost. I'm sure other guys will tell you to go down the V8 route.
Is it the power your after or a new project ?

Dave
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Phil,

I went through this many years ago after my clutch failed. The engine and gearbox had to come out to fix it. What an opportunity for some extra bhp!!

A few questions on the direction you want to take might help. Then again, maybe not.

Do you drive the 7 every day or is it weekend fun?
Is the engine worn / How many miles has it done / Does it need a rebuild? What else on the 7 needs a rebuild?
Is mpg an issue?
Open road or city driving?
Have you uprated the brakes and suspension already or are they standard?
Have you got to stick to a budget?
Do you want to / are you equipped to do the work yourself?

I had an old article from Triumphtune in the 80's.(Now Moss) They reckoned that the std 7 engine started to wear after just 15,000 miles. A change to free flow K & N air filters, appropriate carb needles, tubular manifolds, freeflow exhaust and a fast road cam yielded 130bhp said the article, but only if everything else was in tip top condition.

My brakes and suspension had enough problems with the claimed 105bhp at the time. Most of it had been uprated to stop and go round corners properly before the clutch went pop.

Nothing wrong with a bit of mild tweaking in the meantime.[;)]

Cheers,

Adam

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 25 Feb 2008 17:22

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mitchelltjohn

Hi Beans, what work did you do to your 8V DHC to get 135BHP?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Well than, in a nutshell ....
The bottom end is standard save for a much needed rebore;
Head scimmed (now runs at approx 10:1 compression ratio);
Stainless steel valves with uprated single springs and bronze alloy valveguides plus Fast Road cam (TT10204);
Carburators HS6 with ram pipes and deep KN filters and new needles (set up on a rolling road);
4-2-1 tubular exhaust manifold with 2" bore exhaust system;
Lumenition ignition kit for standard distributor plus some tinkering with the advance timing;
And also a lightened flywheel (munis 1,5 kg if I remember well), but that doesn't add any horses, only pick up is much improved, idle suffers a bit. The good thing is that it pulls quite well from 1500rpm

After that it ran for 50.000 km without being touched (only new oil + filter every 10.000 km) It avaraged between 11 and 12 km per litre fuel.
Since last year this engine sits in another car and it still runs very well indeed. (covered CT's 10CR without a problem [8D])

As yo can see in the picture of the inlet port I posted earlier in this thread there is some gain here by just removing the sharp edges under the valve seats.

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

Wedgie Kway · Postby **Wedgie Kway** » 25 Feb 2008 17:48

I'm very much an amateur spannerman, having only "tinkered" a bit in the past, but I managed to drop a 16V into my TR7. I did some work on the head (mainly cleaning off years of crud, and re-lapping the valves, then re-shimming all the valves). I fabricated the water transer plate and bought an exhaust manifold. Other than that it's just a standard Sprint engine with a few bits swapped over from your old 8V engine. It really is easy (if I can do it, anyone can, seriously!)

After a few initial problems getting the thing to start, it now starts and runs very smoothly, and that's on the old 8V carb needles with untuned carbs. Once it's tuned up with the correct needles should be really nice. (Quieter than Martin's, so we may be re-shimming his head later this year)

1981 TR7 FHC 16V
1970 Spitfire Mk3

"I own 50% of the Triumphs in my road!"

mitchelltjohn · Postby **mitchelltjohn** » 26 Feb 2008 09:26

Thanks Beans. Adam here are replies to your questions:
Do you drive the 7 every day or is it weekend fun? (mostly weekend fun, though if weather is fine I will do daily commute with it)
Is the engine worn / How many miles has it done / Does it need a rebuild? What else on the 7 needs a rebuild? (engine done 64,000. However, head has been off some time before I got it at 57,000. Not sure what work was doen at that time, however, engine does seems ot run quite well no blue smoke etc. Have had it at a shade over "teh ton" on the speedo, before I ran out of road/nerve)
Is mpg an issue? (get 25-30mpg at present,
Open road or city driving? (mostly open road)
Have you uprated the brakes and suspension already or are they standard? (standard brakes , though new std springs and shocks with poly-bushes all round fitted recently)
Have you got to stick to a budget?
Do you want to / are you equipped to do the work yourself? (wooul dliek to do work myself - that's half the fun...)

standard 1981 DHC

Wedgie Kway · Postby **Wedgie Kway** » 26 Feb 2008 09:37

Beans' car is quite well developed, but it CAN be done on a budget. I paid Â£300 for a sound car with a knackered engine, had an engine donated, and have spent a few hundred on parts I didn't have (e.g. exhaust manifold. I will, as time goes on, upgrade the brakes and suspension, but it's not absolutely necessary for the 16V conversion. For now I'll just service what's there.

Over to you, Beans:

1981 TR7 FHC 16V
1970 Spitfire Mk3

http://gobflame.blogspot.com

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 26 Feb 2008 16:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Wedgie Kway

Beans' car is quite well developed ...Over to you, Beans<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I pressume you are refering to 't Kreng here. That one indeed has had some changes over the last 11 years, OK call it development. The DHC is (i.m.o.) rather standard [:D]

For more info have a look at my weblog when you have nothing better to do [;)]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 26 Feb 2008 21:50

The std brakes on my std 7 scared me half to death when I used to drive it everyday back in the 80's. Boiled the brake fluid, set light to a brake pad (not at the same time)and it locked up the front wheels in the wet with little provocation. Wet manhole covers a speciality. I changed to the Vented Capri front setup and all this changed.

Maybe it's because I'm the wrong side of 40 now, but I wouldn't want a lightly tuned dolly engine in a 7 without beefing up the brakes.

I gave the old front callipers away to my neighbour and he bolted them on to his Morris Minor Traveller for a brake upgrade[:0] The boxes that the 7's brake pads come in state "also suitable for Mini 1275GT"[:0]

A fan of the original brakes - NOT

Adam

UKPhilTR7 · Postby **UKPhilTR7** » 27 Feb 2008 07:15

I must admit that the sound of 135bhp in the TR7 engine does sound nice, but at the moment an engine running right would also sound nice to me lol.
I have not driven my car much as it was meant to be a rolling road project, but as yet is has not been on the road more than 6 times. But I do think that the break upgrade will be a path that I am going to go down. Firt thing I thought about was change the disks to vented ones and also get some green stuff pads. Robsport do a kit like this and say that it gives around 30% better stopping, so this will be my start. Then if needed I may fit Pirincess calipers as I want to start using her in the summer for day to day use. Clean all the cobwebs out of her and see what she can do.

Anonymous

Sprint or 2lt engine?

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