The Affair Continues

[sunnie]

Hi all
How is everyone Good I hope!

I have taken some photos and will try to place them here.
I have a oil filter that i wouls like some info on.
It looks like a container that has a bolt in the bottom of.



Is it better to remove this and place a screw in one and if so why e.g. simplicity and availability?

Also i tried to drain the diff and could not find the right entrance and exit. So which one is it?



Also i have bought 2 bottom bushes they are plastic or something like that for the sterring shaft as it passes through the firewall.
Is there an easier way to fit this bush without having to take out the shaft. I was thinking of a slice thought the side of it so that i can slide it over the shaft and fit it that way.


Would like some suggestions on this proceedure. I bought 2 of the bushes so that i will have a back up, Just in case LOL.

Will try to add the photos here.



Ta all
Sunnie
Brisbane

This the current situation. Just never enough time.
The brakes and clutch are done DO NOT ASK HOW MUCH! LOL
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa41 ... _brisbane/

[john 215]

Hi Sunnie,
Most suppliers over here stock a conversion to spin on filter,a lot less messy to change and there are larger than stock filters available so to increase filtration and oil capasity.
The rear axle does not have a drain plug as was not a service item [:0] but if you are ordering a spin on conversion get a diff gasket (remove rear cover and drain oil) at the same time and some Hypoid EP 90. Top up through the 15/16" or 24mm (if new school [;)] ) bolt in the side.
The bulkhead bush can be changed by either removing whole column [:(] or looneing the clamp in your photo (the 2 bolts at the side NOT the centre one) ,disconnecting the lower shaft the other side of the bulkhead and pushing the column up into itself,dont loose the 2 washers the engine side of the bulkhead.Warm the bush in hot water and push it in [}:)] reassemble making sure washers in place and wheel straight and jobs a 'good un' There are 'poly' bushes available that last longer.
Hope this helps,
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

[sunnie]

Hi John
[:)]
Just read the Rimmers catalogue and see that they have a conversion for the oil thingy. But, i have spent so much money not really that i need to get the car on the road asap so that i can work out what else needed to get it RWC(Road Worthy Certificate) here in Qld Aust so that i can drive it on the road.

The bush i see will need to be done that way you described as i can see that this would be the best and thanks for that. Just that i have everything out of the way and it is easy to get to from both sides so i will mark the saft with a center punch so that i will be able to line it up again. I have no wheels on it at the moment and it is sittin up on blocks. I still have to bleed everything as well.

Also i want to get it out from under my house and reclaim the space or the boss will start to buy shoes and clothes. She has her way of gettin even!
Had a alook at the oil filter again and noticed that the clutch is sittin pretty close. I was wondering if that has any difference on the final length and width of a conversion and a filter.

I wont bother with the diff at this point as i need to keep things in perspective. This car has not run for 10 yrs so i think things like oil pump water pump will collapse soon after i get it running.

Any how ta for the info
Sunnie
Brisbane

[Hasbeen]

Sunnie, I still use the old fashioned oil filter canister, with a paper
filter, although, as John says, its a small filter. The 7 is not
listed in their catalogue, but the Ryco R2180P oil filter fits that
housing you have.
To remove that one, just undo the bolt, which goes right through the
thing, & it will drop on your head, along with its oil.

Ryco's O ring is a bit loose, so you may have to stick it in, I used
a bit of blue tack. The UK filter supplied by Greg Tunstall has a
correct O ring with it, [for 3 times the price] so I use one of
these to get an O ring every 4 changes [cheapskate]. Greg would
probably have the spin on kit, if you want one.

To drain [extract the oil from] the diff, I borrowed a marine oil
pump, used to suck the oil out of boat inboard engines. Just a cheap
thing, something like a bike pump, working in reverse. I extended
the pickup with some rubber hose. It gets most of the oil out, but I
am still a bit worried about any metal filings, or other muck in
there. I considered Johns idea, & will probably use it in the future,
but when I did it, I did not want to give the thing any other excuse,
to leak oil on my floor, from somewhere that was not leaking, at the
time.

Hasbeen

[sunnie]

hey HasBeen/Phill
I hope to drive out and see you soon in the car TR& not that Holden thingy but do not hold ya breath. I took about 4 hrs to remove the sump plug as it was frozen in there but it is out now so i am moving further on. I had to use a hammer which i do not like to do too much of as that means ya at the last resort. [:D]
I have all the brakes in now and will fit the sterring bush in while there is nothin in the way. And i am going to fix some future rust problems as well in the same area. I bought some of that POR15 from the endorsements here.
Bloody expensive but i see that it is really quit good from the examples that the salesman showed me.
I was goin to ring you for a cat no on the filter. Did ya not search out from a o ring place a similar size ring. And is there enough clearence with the spin on one. It looks real close to me.
Anyhow ta for the product no i will purchase one asap and put some oil in her.
Also on a quick aside i need some advice on a battery. I was going to go cheap first and then something betere later if the car is okay.
I would appreciate anyones 5c/pence on a motor that has been sittin for 14ys and the condition on the insde from corrosion.
just wondering how much money i could be out of pocket! Maybe a chaange to a v8 might be better.

Sunnie
Brisbane[:D]

[Rich in Vancouver]

After you have struggled with the o-ring on the filter you will see why so many switch to the spin on filter.
As for an engine that has been sitting for 10 years, the first thing I would do is get it running (assuming it turns) Then see how the oil pressure and compression is. You may not have to do anything to it at this point.

Good luck,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

[Rblackadar]

Before you start it after all those years....take the valve cover off and spray the lifters with oil or wd 40 and let it soak, put the cover back on, then remove the coil wire, and start the engine (This will get the oil pumped up into the engine with out actually running it at a high RPM) this will cause less wear on the metal on metal contacts that haven't seen lubrication in a long while. After a few tries, attach the coil wire and try starting her up.

[saabfast]

The oil filter is in a difficult place to see if it is seated correctly. The first time i did it it looked fine, started the car and dumped half a gallon on the drive as the filter canister was not squarely seated on the seal. Check it twice!
Gearbox oil is more fun than the engine & diff, assuming you have a 5 speed, unless you have a level lift. You need to lift the car and get under to drain the box and remove the filler/level hidden on the side. The drop the car and use a bottle with long flexy pipe to fill with ATF (difficult to get in from the top) until it spills, then lift it again to put the plug back!

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
'81 TR7 DHC

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Only remove the top bolt from the upper u-joint, but mark the joint and shaft first. There is only ONE position that the upper bolt will go into the joint/shaft assembly.

Once you have removed the bolt, then loosen the set screw and lock nut on the lower (inside of car) steering column and slide the very bottom section up inside the upper part. This is your photo showing the locking set screw and nut.


Boil the bush for 5 minutes, then push the bush in. If you can't push the bushing in, then make a cut into the bushing from the out side to the center, then twist the bushing into a coil and feed it into the hole.

Be sure to fit the flat washer between the bush and the u-joint during reassembly.



Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

[FI Spyder]

I retained the oil filter (just repainted it GM Blue engine paint, same colour) as it matched the colour on the FI rubber intake clips in order to keep it as original as possible. I found it easy to replace oil filter and not particlularly messy. Don't forget to pick out O ring that gets left behind in block as doubling up on O ring will increase chances of a oil leak. I get oil filters from Victoria British for $5.95 including new O ring so I order one or two with each parts order I put in. If I was modifying the car I would probably get the adapter as others have but that's not my playground.

You can put steering shaft bushing in backwards from interior side but probably better to put it in from engine side. I put a slit in collar to easier twist it in as it was pretty stiff poly. (should have boiled it rather than just soaking it in hot water to soften it.)



You can top up diff. with Pennzoil synthetic diff gearlube that is compatible with existing oil, (it quieted down my diff whine) if it isn't leaking. If leaking through rear plate seal probably just as well to open it up, flush and replace with new gasket and new oil.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Rich in Vancouver]

For those interested in originality, you can paint the filter adaptor and the spin on cartridges the same colour as the original filter canister. This will fool the casual observer but probably not a concours judge. I did this trick on my 1955 MG a couple of years ago and no-one has noticed yet[;)].

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U