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timeless and frosty driving!!!!!!!

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davesopener
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timeless and frosty driving!!!!!!!

Postby davesopener » 15 Dec 2007 14:16

hi,
any simple advice on how to get clocks working?
or even the in car heaters?

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 15 Dec 2007 15:19

Take out the clock, blow it out well with canned air, followed by WD40, then more air. [url="http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/oilgauge.htm"](Clock Removal)[/url]

Connect jumper lead to the positive terminal (Stud with insulation around the back when looking at the back). Connect other end of jumper directly to the pos battery terminal. Connect another jumper wire to one of the other studs on back of the clock and connect to the neg side of the battery.

If it does not start, gently move the wheels on the back of the clock. Not a guarantee, I had two clocks that work and two that don't. I gave one of the good ones away last year.

<font size="4">OR:</font id="size4"> Clock repair courtesy of <u>black_1980_tr7</u>, http://www.smallscalerailway.com/tr7_clock.htm

I can't get my heater to work either, hot water goes through, all of the trap doors work, fan turns, but no heat.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 16 Dec 2007 03:40

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

Take out the clock, blow it out well with canned air, followed by WD40, then more air. [url="http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/oilgauge.htm"](Clock Removal)[/url]

I can't get my heater to work either, hot water goes through, all of the trap doors work, fan turns, but no heat.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Your A/C does have a thermostat type valve or whatever the correct term is (unlike non A/C units.) Assuming that is working and you do have hot water in the heater core maybe some of the foam has fallen into the heater core blocking the air flow. Mine had totally disintegrated. I replaced all foam after removing the A/C unit and I get great heat through it.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 16 Dec 2007 11:50

Hi,
As others have said check your thermostat,does the engine itself get warm.If you have not had the car long then the stat could have been removed [:(].Also check to make sure heater has not been bypassed. Have also seen them full of solidfied leak stopper built up over the years or other debris ie. alloy from the head where anifreeze has not been used [:0]
As far as the clock,JUNK IT!!!,install a oil pressure gauge in its place,that what i done yesterday (beats crimbo shopping!!!) easy to do and cheap with a gauge of Fleabay.Most radios (modern i grant you)have clocks so do mobiles and even your wrist! but none can tell you oil pressure!! much more important!
Image
Picture of gauge where clock should be.
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
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Beans
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Postby Beans » 16 Dec 2007 12:31

Is the heater connected to the cars cooling system?
It might be disconnected to "repair" a leaking heater matrix.

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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
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Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 16 Dec 2007 15:11

I like that John. Another idea for me to put on the list.

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Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 16 Dec 2007 15:27

John,
Is that a Smiths guage?
Looks like a good mod. I really don't like being without an oil pressure guage.
Cheers,
Richard

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 16 Dec 2007 15:41

Hi Rich,
Yeah Smiths gauge,got of Fleabay for less than £10 [:)] slight bit of drilling ect through the plastic to mount and allow for the pressure pipe but straight forward stuff.I removed the lense of the gauge to avoid that 'double glazed effect' but just mounted the remainder where the clock should be.Looks like its a factory fit [8D]
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)
Image
1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 16 Dec 2007 16:15

Maybe some have not discovered that we have a whole technical section to our websites. If not, here is the link to the oil gauge refit:

http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/oilgauge.htm

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

john 215
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Postby john 215 » 17 Dec 2007 11:13

Hi,
Exactly how i done it,should work as well with a electric gauge cant see why not[?] Prefer mechanical myself though.
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)
Image
1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 18 Dec 2007 10:48

Well Whaddya Know!
More wedgie reading for me...Thanks!
That is a very good article. Kudos to Danny.
I will be checking out the rest of the tech stuff shortly.

Cheers,
Richard

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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