Clutch - Won't Go Into Gear

[Graeme]

Hi Everyone

I was driving my 7 the other day and I noticed I was having trouble changing down the gears, especially into second. (Its a five speed 2.0litre). This morning the car won't go into gear at all and the clutch feels light. There is a patch of some stuff that looks like oil on the rubber floor mat in the drivers footwell (its been there a while if I'm honest and hasn't got any bigger).

Does this mean that I need a top up of clutch fluid or do I need a new clutch? It hasn't been slipping.

Thanks in advance.

Graeme

[image]http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/uploads/graeme/oscar1.jpg[/image]

<font color="red">'Oscar'</font id="red"> 1977 FHC

[Hasbeen]

Graeme, it would appear that your clutch master cylinder is on its
way out, & has started to leak back past the piston.

I would top up the clutch fluid, & bleed the slave cylinder. If this
gets your clutch working, I would then plan to overhaul the clutch
hydraulics in the near future.

If this is your problem, its only a minor repair job.

Hasbeen

[Graeme]

Thanks Hasbeen. Going to give this ago and probably replace the master cylinder (better safe than sorry). Just glad it isn't the whole clutch!

Graeme

[image]http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/uploads/graeme/oscar1.jpg[/image]

<font color="red">'Oscar'</font id="red"> 1977 FHC

[Hasbeen]

No guarantee Graeme, just the fact it went suddenly, & the oil in
the footwell indicates a probability.

Hasbeen

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Clutch%20Master%20Cylinder.html"]Isuzu Clutch Master Cylinder Swap[/url]

[saabfast]

I have just had this problem. Saturday before last I found that the clutch take up was close to the floor, and gradually got closer. It then became difficult to change gear. I stopped and checked the fluid and the M/C was empty. Luckily I was near Halfrauds so picked up a bottle of fluid and topped up, and the operation returned (so had not got too much air in).
I ordered a seal kit from ebay and changed last Sunday. Was not too difficult, would be easier wth two as the bolts have loose nuts on the cabin side of the bulkhead. I used mole grips to hold the nuts. Had it back and the system bled (with pressure bleeder) in less than an hour.
I would be interested to know how far others lift the pedal before take up as, although it drives and changes gear OK, it still seems to be a much shorter travel than I remember (I did bleed twice to make sure).

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
'81 TR7 DHC

[busheytrader]

Hi,

I've had my 7 for over 20 years, the last 16 years as a 7V8. I've had to rebuild the clutch master cylinder three times now as the rubber breaks up / perishes with age. Each time fluid leaked through the pedal box and fell on my feet. It's a fiddly but simple job to do. I've never had to bleed the system afterwards since the air has always travelled up and freed itself after leaving it overnight.

Beware the clutch pedal that suddenly goes solid. That means the clutch fulcrum pin has broken through the lever and it's an egine and gearbox out job to rectify. When that happened to me the dolly engine came out and the V8 went back in a bit later!


Cheers,


Adam