Cylinder head removal

[prlee]

Looks like I will be rebuilding my 2.0L engine sometime in the next 12 months. I have looked for advice using the search button and just wanted to check out what I found.

The studs can be very diificult to remove, so use a mix of acetone or vinegar to penetrate the stud. Remove the nuts and soak and repeat for a week. Do not use WD40.

Is parafin a good alternative?

Tap regularly to loosen the stud.


Use the double nut method to remove the studs.

How effective is this and is it worth buying a stud removal tool?

Finally use the rope method to loosen the head, trying a wedge between the head and the engine can damage the head.

If you can raise the head with the studs still in place then carfully saw through the studs.


Is this a good summary? Looks like I may have a go.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - some restoration in progress.

[darrellw]

Hi Pete,

The TWOA (Triumph Wedge Owner's Association) has built a special tool to aid in head removal:

http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/twoa- ... ntals.html

Last I heard, one of the clubs in the UK was building one from the same plans.

It is supposed to work quite well.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

[Hasbeen]

Prlee, when I removed my head a while back, I could find no reason why it was quite hard.

There was no corrosion anywhere. The studs were well greased both where they went through the head, & the threads in the block. Once started, they screwed out easily.

I removed 2 with the use of a screwdriver bit, in an impact wrench, easily.

With the others, one of the lugs forming the screw driver slot broke off, or twisted towards breaking off. The rest were going too, when I stopped trying.

One came out with the 2 nut system, at the 3Rd try.

One came OK when the nut was screwed on & welded on, with an impact wrench.

One broke the weld twice, & required serious welding to hold, & remove, again with an impact wrench. I was being very careful with the impact wrench to avoid shearing the stud.

Once removed I could screw the studs more than half way in with my fingers. I can only assume they had bottomed in their hole, & effectively locked when tightened down hard.

Good luck & remember, this is fun.

Hasbeen

[Beans]

I think you forgot patience, but as you are taking 12 months to do the job, that shouldn't be much of a problem [:D]
Double nut or welded nut should do the trick but again the studs can put on quite a fight.
If they won't move despite all your best efforts weld on a nut using plenty of heat this should help freeing the coorosion around the stud a bit.

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[FI Spyder]

An Impact wrench/air gun, what ever you want to call it would really help as it gives repeated bangs to the stud to help free it. They are adjustable so you can use different impacts as necessary. They can be quite inexpensive these days. If you don't have air you can buy electric ones which are also inexpensive. WD40 in not really a penetrating oil, the WD stands for water displacement. I read a website that tested different penetrating oils and what worked well was a mixture of acetone and ATF. Before using that try using heat or cold (you can get aerosol cans that freeze) to see if that works. If you use penetrating oil method build a little plasticine (modeling clay) dam to hold the penetrating oil in place so it can soak in foe a few weeks if necessary. For whatever reason some heads will be easier than others. I've seen one head were the stud bond was so strong that despite the above, the aluminum around the stud twisted from the head rendering it useless. Hopefully yours will not be one of those. Patience is key. Time may be needed.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[nick]

One stud broke as I tried to remove the nut. If they don't turn when you apply force, use ample Break Free or some other penetrating oil. Create a bath of oil for the stud and let it soak for a few days.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[kstrutt1]

One of mine would not move even after I had cut through the head and stud and the head was off. Pounding it with a 4lb hammer would not shift it, in the end I bought and fitted a secondhand engine which I ran for 2 years, then when I fitted tge v8 I sold it for the same amount to another guy in the same position.

Always wondered why not use bolts? Idealy necked ones so there is less contact with the alloy head.

Kevin

[prlee]

Thanks, lots of advice. I have some confidence now.

The local garage is lending me a gauge that will confirm whether the problem is the head or piston.

Pete
1981 Carmelian Red 2 litre DHC.
Polybush, KYB shocks, electric fan, electric windows and electronic ignition roller bearing struts and anti-dive kit - otherwise standard
1979 Pageant Blue Spitfire 1500 - some restoration in progress.