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LT77 front oil seal advice please!

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TR Tony
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LT77 front oil seal advice please!

Postby TR Tony » 08 Jan 2013 17:14

I suspect a leak from the front seal of the 5 speed box in my TR8. It's got quite bad so I need to sort it.

Apart from the obvious matter of removing the box (this will be done with the help of a garage with a lift etc), are there any things to watch out for when changing the seal? I am assuming I need to remove the front cover to get at the seal. I will be changing the clutch while the box is out, and probably the pivot arm.

Any advice from those who have tacked this before is very welcome [:)]

Tony
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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 08 Jan 2013 17:50

Hi Tony,

Easy enough job once box out, un-bolt the front cover, be careful as there are a couple of shims for adjusting the bearings, I have seen a couple of boxes where these have broken up but that is unusal and not the norm,the seal lives inside this housing, dont forget to order a gasket for the front cover.

I would also change the oil and check things like gearchange housing bushes etc.

Cheers John

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Postby Beans » 08 Jan 2013 20:18

As tolerances or pretty tight on the bearings prepare for fitting a new shim to get the correct tension/play on the front bearings ...

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Postby Workshop Help » 08 Jan 2013 20:34

About that little pre-load issue on the shims. Please bear in mind that wear over the miles can result in a looseness with the shims. This wear comes from the bearings and races melding into themselves. As such, a resetting of the shim pack may be necessary. I set mine up a tad on the tight side and put up with the noise as it wore in. After some 20,000 miles now, the box is quiet and very smooth in shifting and in operation.

Had I been a typical unaware driver, the noise would have been unacceptable. This is why shops set the shim distance a bit on the loose side to prevent customer complaints with the result being the gearbox does not last as long as it could.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby DNK » 08 Jan 2013 21:44

Somebody splain that tool to a lay man

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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Jan 2013 22:48

It is a dial gauge to measure the in/out play in the input shaft (adjusted by talked about shims). The base of the arm is magnetic so it attaches to metal surface. The magnetic base is turned on and off (deactivated) by knob on the base for easy removal.

They are not particularly expensive and really handy for a plethora of jobs.



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Postby DNK » 08 Jan 2013 23:41

So do you lift up on the input shaft to see play?

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Postby Hasbeen » 09 Jan 2013 00:30

Beans I love your workshop, & the quality of your tools.

You would hate mine.

Hasbeen

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Postby Beans » 09 Jan 2013 07:33

I borrowed the dial gauge from a friend and "that" workshop is the (rear)cellar,
which was the only place in the house which I could secure so that no one would stumble over,
or interfere with the 'box parts lying around for the time it took me to get the 'box back together again.

Especially sourcing the correct shims was a bit of a pain,
as a result that part of the cellar was forbidden territory for a couple of weeks [}:)]

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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

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Postby TR Tony » 09 Jan 2013 10:55

Thank you everyone, all tips gratefully received. I'll let you know how it goes ......

Tony
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<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

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