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TR8 Steering Wheel

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kermit
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Postby kermit » 09 Jan 2014 16:20

Ian,
Good information. I agree, it would certainly be easier to buy a new one. I have two original TR8 wheels that I have picked up from salvage yards over the years. Hate to leave them sitting on the shelf.

There was some talk this morning on the TR8 list about using a SEM aerosol product called Classic Coat leather paint on steering wheels. So I did a SEM search and found some wheel restoration threads. This one is interesting as it explains how to fix holes and cracks with super glue before applying the SEM paint:

http://www.allgentransams.com/TATA/inde ... pic=2704.0

Image
1980 TR8 DHC
Poseidon Green

Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 09 Jan 2014 16:44

That looks clever, whether you could feel the difference - but it's a much cheaper fix and looks good.

My next step is to speak to the other refurbishing company and see what they have to say, because I had the wheel powder coated we had to remove the steel ring and all of the rubber moulding material.

It may be that it will cost more than their original quote.

Cheers

Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Green
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

Peter Nuss
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Postby Peter Nuss » 09 Jan 2014 22:10

I never heard of a TR8 wheel with a steel plate riveted to the aluminum stamping. None of the TR8 wheels I have are like that. Mine are all aluminum and bolted to an aluminum hub. Just like Kermit's picture.

Can you post the address to Moto-Lita? I'll mail a wheel to them.

TR8

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 09 Jan 2014 23:04

I have repaired my 7s [TR8] wheel, after some bits came out of it.

I used "plastic metal", which is an epoxy resin, filled with something, probably iron powder, for use in cast iron repairs. I used it because I had it to repair a crack in a pump housing, any good marine epoxy filler would do.

I think epoxy would be better than superglue. Superglue is rigid, & will crack when thick. Epoxy is flexible to some extent, & will absorb some of the steering wheels flex.

One advantage of the plastic metal is that it is black & it disappears when done. Only someone looking closely for it would find it.

I did some about 8 years back, & a couple of new spots a few years later. The wheel is still there & looking good.

Hasbeen

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 09 Jan 2014 23:29

That paint job looks good but how long will it look that way? I saw a steering wheel a few months back, on a for sale Hyundai SUV that had the factory paint worn off and it wasn't that old.



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Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 10 Jan 2014 07:33

Here you go Peter here is the contact email: www.moto-lita.co.uk

have you stripped off your wheel? the steel ring is hidden within the foam rubber inner.

Regards

Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Green
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

Peter Nuss
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Postby Peter Nuss » 10 Jan 2014 13:36

Thanks Ian. Yes, I've stripped the wheel. One of them burnt in a car fire and was just a plain alumimum stamping. Another one the foam fell off the wheel it was so bad. Still did not see any steel riveted to the aluminum. Interesting, maybe there were two different companies making the wheels.

TR8

Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 10 Jan 2014 15:21

Hi Peter,

looks like you probably have a Mota Lita wheel then, does it have any numbers or any words stamped on it anywhere?

From what I can make out there are at least different companies that have made the steering wheels for the TR8 and BL all looking very much the same in size and design.

It's worth sending Simon at Mota Lita an email first of all.

best of luck.

Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Green
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

kermit
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Postby kermit » 03 Feb 2014 00:15

So I went ahead with my grassroots steering wheel restoration and here is how it went down.

Materials: Loctite Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate), 160 Grit Sandpaper, 220 Grit Sandpaper, Steel wool, SEM Leather Prep & SEM Classic Coat Black aerosol paint.

Original worn wheel:
Image

STEP 1: Clean wheel with degreaser.
STEP 2: Scuff wheel with sandpaper and clean.
STEP 3: Apply thin coat of Super Glue in the chipped areas. It took about 8 thin coats to build up the area that was missing. Then sand with 160 sandpaper. This pic shows the 1st coat:
Image
STEP 4: Apply 1 to 2 coats of super glue to the small leather cracks, sand & clean. I didn't go overboard with the cracks as I wanted to maintain some texture to the leather. This pic shows the coats almost done.
Image
STEP 5: Once the leather is built up to a consistent surface sand the entire wheel with 220 sandpaper and clean.
STEP 6: Spray apply the SEM Leather Prep to the whole wheel and wipe off. This product is supposed to prepare the surface for the final paint and makes the surface somewhat flexible. Pic of the Leather Prep applied:
Image
STEP 7: Spray apply the Classic Coat Leather aerosol in 3 to 4 light coats.
STEP 8: Sand aluminum spokes with 220 sandpaper to remove the paint. Use steel wool to brighten up the aluminum.
STEP 9: Sand the rust off the screw heads.
The final product. Not bad for $45 [8D].
Image



Image
1980 TR8 DHC
Poseidon Green

silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 03 Feb 2014 23:43

wow , very nice!

Ron.
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 04 Feb 2014 13:29

Pictures always look better than real life up close but if it's anywhere near, I too am impressed. Does it feel like real leather? Only time will tell of the longevity. I won't be able to do anything like that on mine as it's too impregnated with tack restorer.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 04 Feb 2014 14:03

Great job Kermit!

Looks good from here and a big saving from having to send it over the pond to get fixed.

I'm no further on at the moment, hopefully we can get going again soon I'll keep you updated.

Cheers

Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Green
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

kermit
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Postby kermit » 04 Feb 2014 16:58

90% of the wheel still has good flex and it does have the feel of leather. The texture is smoother now than the original leather. The area of the chip has no flex. Hoping to get a few years out of it.

Image
1980 TR8 DHC
Poseidon Green

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 04 Feb 2014 17:20

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by kermit</i>

90% of the wheel still has good flex and it does have the feel of leather. The texture is smoother now than the original leather. The area of the chip has no flex. Hoping to get a few years out of it.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hasbeen said he thought epoxy mix he uses would have more flex than krazy glue. There must be some polymer compound out there that would go on as a paste, dry with a rubbery feel to it and be sandable to bring it down to profile and be paintable.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 05 Feb 2014 00:17

Thinking about that Spyder, I used a harder formulation of urethane adhesive sealant to stick down the toilet pedestal in a new bathroom, cutting off the excess after it cured.

The excess cut off after curing did have a similar stiffness & flexure to my steering wheel, & comes in black.

Hasbeen

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