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It was nearly on the road!!

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
Monkeyzak
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Joined: 02 Feb 2017 18:58
Location: Near Glasgow

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby Monkeyzak » 02 May 2017 21:51

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Monkeyzak
Rust Hunter
Posts: 203
Joined: 02 Feb 2017 18:58
Location: Near Glasgow

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby Monkeyzak » 02 May 2017 21:51

Finally worked out how to resize.

Monkeyzak
Rust Hunter
Posts: 203
Joined: 02 Feb 2017 18:58
Location: Near Glasgow

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby Monkeyzak » 02 May 2017 21:53

Can put on closer ones if that helps.

I thought with a new fusebox I'd miss lots of the electric issues. How niaive am I!!! Haha

Beans
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Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby Beans » 02 May 2017 22:23

This is how the fuse-box should look ... on a LHD car (with a 1980 model year loom) :roll:

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1976 TR7 FHC (currently being restored ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng)

http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/

UKPhilTR7
TRiffic
Posts: 1931
Joined: 24 Mar 2005 12:52
Location: West Midlands, England

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 03 May 2017 05:38

Hi Monkeyzak, this is all the fum of owning an old car. I have learnt so much about cars since working on my TR and the amount of knowledge that is here is always pleasing.

The Rimmer site is always a good place to start due to their diagrams. Have a look at this page and hopefully it will help with the fuse layout

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006242

It is a bit concerning how both lights didn’t go up when you swapped the relays over. Try swaping them over again and then turn the little twist nob on the bottom of the headlight lifting motor. It may be stuck and this may free it up. BE VERY CAREFUL though as that nob can spin very fast and can give a bit of a shock.

Look at one issue at a time as the feeling when you fix it will be great and you can move to the next job on a high. Don’t worry about asking lots of questions, we are all here to help.

From what I can see you have three issues (headlights popping up, engine bad running and indicators). I would start another two questions on here for the other two and leave this one for the headlights. That way, people can focus their replies to individual issues and you will not miss any posts.
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FI Spyder
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Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby FI Spyder » 03 May 2017 15:34

As for biting off more than you can chew, everybody starts off with zero knowledge.

As for new fuse box solving your electrical problems, the number of contacts in it are a small percentage of contacts that you are solving. Some people had problems with non clean surface between fuse and holders that you would bypass (remember it doesn't take much, we are only dealing with 12V on an auto circuit) Most "connections" are not at the fuse box.

As for hanging relays, remember different year/destination fuse boxes had the relays
in different positions. Defining which relay does what probably best to pull a relay and see what doesn't work. Not all relays are necessarily the same part number although they may look similar.

Once sorted the car is quite reliable. I've only had one electrical issue after initial clean & grease and that was wire strands broke off a clip in the console area due to me removing the radio a few times (no 12V to dash lights).

Perseverance is rewarded after a problem is resolved.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

Dave Dyer
Swagester
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Joined: 19 Nov 2005 16:50
Location: Shropshire UK

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby Dave Dyer » 03 May 2017 18:20

It will be daunting at first, like everything is, but slowly you'll get to know it.

The electrics on the TR7 are basic, ie switches, relays, motors etc. Nothing electronic, like the complicated modern cars.
Cleaning all the earth points is a must, I think there are 6?

The silver relays in your picture are hazard and indicator (standard type that fit many cars). The blue relay is the starter relay. One black one is for the horn, the other black ones are for the headlights.
You can leaver off (with a small screwdriver working around the plastic case) the relay cover (black and blues ones) and clean the relay contacts with fine wet and dry paper. They sometimes corrode.

As I say its all work on-able

Also have a look here, it explains the headlight system clearly. Should help you.

http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab ... lights.htm

littlepippin
Rust Hunter
Posts: 110
Joined: 03 Nov 2015 14:27
Location: Tunbridge Wells

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby littlepippin » 03 May 2017 21:52

what happens when you flash main beam ?
i had to replace several inches of burnt out wiring behind the dasboard as someone had removed the headlamp motor circuit breaker for some unknown reason. The rubber boot on the headlight pod had come loose, jammed half shut against the body work, and the circuit burnt out....

It is a big challenge if like me you have to learn from scratch, but so rewarding when you FINALLY see those light motors working correctly.

Let us know how you get on ?
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UKPhilTR7
TRiffic
Posts: 1931
Joined: 24 Mar 2005 12:52
Location: West Midlands, England

Re: It was nearly on the road!!

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 03 May 2017 22:35

With the comments from Dave about which relay is which and the rimmed site, you should be able to ensure you swap and/or replace the correct relays. Hopefully this will help you resolve the issue.

Would be nice to hear when you have them working.
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