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Bearings...

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 08 Feb 2009 04:05

Once you remove the centre nut & the big retaining washer the hub should pull off easily. Since the bearing is shagged anyway use a bit of force. Tap the back of the disc with a soft hammer or if you only have a normal hammer use a block of wood as an interface so you don't damage the disc face.

Hopefully you won't have any stub axle damage but ...

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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 08 Feb 2009 04:13

Next option: bash it harder.

After that you will probably have to remove the whole strut & take it into a mechanics. I'd guess that if it is as seized as all that then the stub axle will need work anyway.

Good luck.

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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 08 Feb 2009 04:50

Ahh. That big washer needs to come out - I did mention that. It should have come out by now with all the effort you put into it. The washer will have a flat section in the centre hole matching a machined flat section on the axle. This is so the washer doesn't spin on the axle. The washer must be jammed so try tapping it to release it. It usually comes off just by pulling it with your fingers.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 08 Feb 2009 06:20

Juha, it sounds as if you have been running on a very bad wheel bearing, for some time.

This happened to me once, when I was racing a Morgan +4. You can actually shrink the inner race carrier onto the stub axle. If this has happened, & you apply too much force, removing the thing, you can/will damage the thread on your stub axle, rendering it junk.

If you don't know what all the parts of a wheel bearing look like, go & buy a set to replace the damaged ones, & inspect these, so you know what you are dealing with.

If you can't remove the wheel, it's the outer carrier, & the rollers of the outer race stopping you.

If you have not done so, wash everything up with degreaser, &/or petrol, so they are really free of grease.. You should see the bearing rollers, & the light pressed metal carrier, which keeps them in place.

If the race is in one bit, you need to destroy this carrier, with a slide hammer, grinder or some such. With it destroyed, & removed, the loose rollers will fall to the bottom of the race, allowing the hub to tilt down. The rollers can then be removed individually. With the rollers out, the wheel & hub, will come off, over the carrier, which is tight on the stub axle.

With access now available you can grind, or hacksaw a slot, almost through the carrier. This should release its grip on the stub axle, allowing removal. If it has not, support the underside of the carrier with something very sollid, & give it a big wack with a big hammer, on a cold chissel in the slot. This should spilt it, allowing removal.

Now fit a full set of new bearings. I'd do the other side at the same time, as it is simple, if done before damage.

When we did mine, on practice night, it took 23 hack saw blades, as the carrier is fully hardened. A grinder is probably cheaper. Don't heat [with oxy], or grind the stub axle, as they are highly stressed, & don't respond well to even minor damage.

If this sounds like too much trouble, be careful who you take the thing to, as again, careless treatment is not good for stub axles.

Hasbeen.

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 08 Feb 2009 07:55

That's one of the benefits of having your car scrutineered for the track every few weeks - they always check your bearings for you.

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Odd
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Postby Odd » 08 Feb 2009 08:26

FYI:
Ted Schumacher sells an upgraded front hub that accepts a larger/better outer bearing...

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