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Head gasket

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Mikey
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Head gasket

Postby Mikey » 10 Apr 2008 03:07

I recently posted regarding milky oil under the valve cover cap after spring start up several weeks ago. This past weekend I began the job of replacing my water pump which had started leaking last summer. After draining the radiator of coolant and removing it from the car, I noticed the final bit of coolant that I was able to tip out from the tanks was a milky color and seemed a thicker consistency than normal. I am now even more concerned that I have a bigger problem here...head gasket??? Is this the most common sign of a blown head gasket? Are there other indicators I could diagnose?
Subsequently, if I replace the head gasket are there components of the head that I should service at this opportunity? The car has 88,000 kms and I feel there is evidence that this motor has been opened up and worked on before; ie: silicon gasket material under valve cover, timing cover and oil pan. Also evidence of different bolts used in reassembly of some components...some with extra washers added to compensate for incorrect sizes used. The even bigger question is assuming a worst case scenario, with the head removed and serviced, should I stop there? How about the bottom end? Although the car runs decently, I do check plugs frequently and my plugs are generally oily and fouled. I have not yet observed any blue smoke from the tailpipe, but there is a very pungient emmisions odor which is quite noticeable when idling. I have set my carbs and timing according to all the good info I have collected. I realize this is alot of stuff to lay down on one post but I am quite confused as to which direction to move now. I could just put in my new water pump(which has gone very well I might add thanks again to all the good info found here) and roll along but I know in my gut is not the right thing to do. Thanks for your input.

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 10 Apr 2008 03:28

Having replaced the head gasket on my TR7 I can say...Don't do it unless you are sure you have to! It is an absolute pig of a job. I destroyed my head removing it and had to find a replacement.[B)]
The job is straightforward with the exception of removing the head studs which is all but impossible due to piss-poor design.

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 10 Apr 2008 08:47

My recommendation is to get the car running and see how it goes. It might be worthwhile changing the oil though by the sound of it.

Head gasket failure will show itself eventually. Keep your eyes on the temperature gauge as often as possible and also keep some attention on the radiator overflow bottle - this is where the earlier cars are better because you can see what's happening in the bottle. If coolant is being forced up into the bottle then it's odds on you have a blown head gasket.

If you ultimately come to require a gasket change the stud to concentrate on is that forward stud right in the corner. It's virtually impossible to get anything on it but if you can shift that one it's worth having a go at the rest. Cylinder heads can sieze onto the engine block and some poor souls have found they've had to smash them off to rescue the engine block. I've never had this problem despite having a seized on head in the past. Patience and perserverance probably did the trick on that occasion.

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