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Battery in trunk

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JSutton1
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Battery in trunk

Postby JSutton1 » 24 Nov 2007 12:01

I am moving my battery to the trunk. Anyone have any advice?

Jim

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Jim

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 24 Nov 2007 12:11

<b><font color="green"><font face="Verdana">Sorry all I know about this is that the v8's had them in the trunk as far as I know.
But did want to say that your pics on the rebuild are great, loved looking over them and has given me a few ideas on how to sort my girl out.
Did it take to long to strip her down?</b></font id="green"></font id="Verdana">

stevie_a
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Postby stevie_a » 24 Nov 2007 17:35

<font color="green"><b>this is my battery and it lives in the trunk </b> </font id="green">

Image

Image Image Image

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Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 25 Nov 2007 11:01

The TR8 has it on the right side of the trunk. Neg grounds to the chassis via the trunk floor. Positive runs over the rear wheel arch along the sill to a junction at the right side kick panel(there are a couple of major power pickups there) then out through the firewall to the starter.
Summit Raceing has a kit for $125 that has a nice box with hold downs and all the wire & terminals. 20ft of pos & 6 of ground. Not bad considering the price of the heavy gauge wire alone.

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 25 Nov 2007 12:51

Hi,
I have fitted mine on the N/S as well,should be the O/S i know but we sit on the right hand side or should that be 'right' (correct) side of the car [;)].
Image
The wiring is in side the box is for fuel pump and cooling fan relays/fuses.The battey is a sealed BMW one with its own vent pipe so not to fill boot with any hydrogen type fumes.The box was off Fleabay, out of a rallycross car,fibre glass with a kevalar lid all for £4,BARGAIN!!!!
Cheers John.

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grndsm
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Postby grndsm » 26 Nov 2007 16:56

I am also interested in placing my battery in the trunk, but my car will most definitely end up at the drag strip and in order to pass technical inspection, cars which have relocated rear battery must have an external battery off switch. What is worse, such switch must also kill the engine!

However, if your car originally came this way from the factory, you are exempt from such requirement. Well… I am thinking of getting some documentation from a TR8 (which shows that it is originally in the rear) and applying it to my TR7, banking on a fact that your average 18 year old "tech inspector" will have no idea what is the difference between TR7 and TR8. [;)]

So, does anyone have any idea as what I can use for such proof? I already looked in my TR7/TR8 owner's manual and the only picture of the TR8 engine bay shows the battery to be in the FRONT! [:0] I am not sure why it is showing it that way (perhaps early/late production units were supposed to have it there?), but what other factory documentation shows it to be in the trunk?


Leon
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TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 26 Nov 2007 19:53

Leon, I have a B/L parts catalogue dated Nov 77. The catalogue is part number RTC9020B.

In the electrical section it clearly shows the TR8 Coupe with the battery located in the boot & related leads running along the car. It's not a photograph, just a kind of line drawing, labelled Battery TR8. There is a separate drawing showing the boot mounted battery box.

You can see it's a US spec car as the drawing shows US spec rear bumpers.

If it would help I could try scanning this for you but it is a thick catalogue so not sure if I can get it under the scanner lid!



Tony
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Chris Turner
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Postby Chris Turner » 26 Nov 2007 20:21

All the factory built TR8s had the battery in the boot. Only the FHC versions had the battery box, all the convertibles had the metal base, frame and J bolts.

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Peter Nuss
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Postby Peter Nuss » 27 Nov 2007 00:51

Mount it on the right hand side if it's a US car, you'll find the holes to mount it there also. Find a nice battery box that will fit your battery and vent it to the outside (unless you plan on using a gel battery). Two vents are nice one hose facing forward and one facing backwards to vent fumes. Mount a battery disconnect switch in the trunk (can be used as a theft deterrent). Use good quality cable, proper gauge ( I think O2 or better) and solder all connections and secure cable with Adel clamps or similar. I like to use a battery cable junction box from a early 90's GM product to terminate all connections needed in the engine compartment. Insure you have a good ground, measure it with a Volt/Ohm meter, and check it often. YMMV

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grndsm
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Postby grndsm » 27 Nov 2007 16:42

Tony,

Good idea about the B/L catalog! Let me know if you can capture the image! Thanks!

Leon
'94 Eagle Talon AWD Turbo 613whp <powered by Mitsu 4G63T
'80 TR7 Spyder GS-T <undergoing Mitsu 4G63T transplant :)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2472999

Steve-LPS-Thomas
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Postby Steve-LPS-Thomas » 27 Nov 2007 18:50

This has been the subject of much discussion before. Hopefully this will take you to the previous thread. http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2673&SearchTerms=battery

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<li>The First and Only UK TR7 "Victory Edition" (Now Sold) </li>
<li>Ex-BL/Safety Devices Development 8v Rally Car.</li>
<li>"The Shape of things to Come" Trailer.</b></li></ul> Image

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