Headlights

[dursleyman]

Not had much headlight trouble on my "new" car, all the usual trouble spots were checked when I was working on the car and its been good. Now I just started to get a problem where one or other will randomly stick down. The instant I touch that little manual knob on the motor they zoom up and behave OK - until the next time.
I am thinking its possibly dirty contacts in the motor. I have never had to take one of the motors apart so is it time to start?

Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[auto_cran]

Hi Russ.

I had a very similar problem - except one of my lights wouldn't go down (popped up fine). But as soon as I touched the manual knob, it would take over, the knob would spin, and the light would nicely go down.

My 'fix' turned out to be cleaning and re-seating the relay in the back of the glove box. Since then, it hasn't failed me - and I now test the lights every time I'm working on the car.

I would try that first before messing with the light itself.

Chris
'76 Java Green FHC – a continued work in progress

[UKPhilTR7]

I too had a problem like this. My lights would come on and only one pod would go up, but when I turned the knob, it offending one would go up. Also when they did both go up on their own one was slower than the other. I took the relays out of the fuse box, cleaned them and changed the order. This worked a treat for me and now they go up and down when they are meant to on their own and at the same rate.

I would also advise checking this first before you try anything more time and labour intensive

[Chris Turner]

Sometimes a loose rubber headlight surround can cause this intermittent problem, they don't have much clearance and the manual override gives that little extra push.

www.triumphtrs.co.uk
THE Coca Cola car
The C+C Conversions rally car JDG 941V
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[dursleyman]

Thanks guys, I'll start with those relays then. It's only the smallest touch on that manual knob that starts them off.
Chris, I am sure the rubber is well clear but will double check.

Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[busheytrader]

I had similar problems with dirty contacts in the headlight switch. Green grunge jelly / powder all over the contacts. The connectors in the loom from switch to headlight motors can also suffer t he same fate.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

[Beans]

Indeed sounds like to much resistance in the wiring circuit.
Best (and easiest) way to start is cleaning switch and all connectors (inclusing earth points).

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