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Dizzy Vac unit

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DNK
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Dizzy Vac unit

Postby DNK » 21 Jan 2014 14:18

Since I don't use my Vac unit can I just remove it??
What do I cover the hole with if there is one?

Don
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Postby FI Spyder » 21 Jan 2014 14:27

Mine seems to be inoperable like it's frozen (Delco electronic). I haven't thought to check the new one to compare. It wasn't connected when I got the car so wondered if the FI's didn't use it. I've just put a rubber/plastic plug over the nozzle in case there was any leakage. You can buy various sized plugs at the local auto parts store. There doesn't seem to be any port on the intake for it. It doesn't seem to need it.

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Postby DNK » 21 Jan 2014 14:32

My timing is completely adjusted by the computer
So
Don't need it

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Postby HDRider » 21 Jan 2014 14:36

All the TR7's should have either a vacuume advance or retart unit.

Disableing them can cause lack of performance issues as you will not be getting the full range of ignition advance. Do not remove the unit as it is what keeps the base plate from moving around which changes the advance.

You can convert a retard unit to an advance type by changing out the vacuum module. One from a mid 70's 318 CI Dodge will work with some minor adjustments. You will need to find a different vacuum port as it needs vacuum at speed, not at idle.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

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Postby DNK » 21 Jan 2014 14:43

Mines a V8 and like I said it is not in use Soooo...

Don
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Postby DNK » 21 Jan 2014 15:06

Hmmm, Could get the plastic cover off.
Think they must be those funky Phillips head screws.
So will do that later
Though my vac unit was installed with torque screws, interesting

Next question
Is this the preferred direction for the hold clamp?
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Don
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Postby mb4tim » 21 Jan 2014 15:35

When I had my Delco dizzy rebuilt, the guy updated the weights and springs that I no longer need the retarder. He told me to plug up the vacuum line.

-Tim
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Postby DNK » 08 Feb 2014 20:40

<font size="6">ACKKKKK!!!!!</font id="size6">


Went to time the "frickin" thing and the stupid advance unit hits the top hose.
It needs more clockwise turning.
That was a pain to drop back where I thought it should go
BUT I guess I missed

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Postby darrellw » 08 Feb 2014 22:24

Hi Don,

If the vac unit isn't connected to vacuum, then you should be able to remove it, but you may then have to find a way to fix the points plate (I know it isn't really points) so that it doesn't rotate. I don't know what the guts of your dizzy looks like.

Not sure what your question is about the clamp. Seems like there is only one way for it to work?

-Darrell

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Postby Hasbeen » 08 Feb 2014 22:38

The vacuum retard is really only there to help get a good idle.

Back in the day most people doing any performance mods on their car, & anyone going racing had the same job as Tim done, with the weights & springs reworked, & the vacuum system removed.

It was done on the TR3A engine in my Morgan in about 63, & the only way to tell the difference was with a stopwatch.

Hasbeen

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Postby darrellw » 08 Feb 2014 23:20

Vacuum retard is for emissions.

Vacuum advance is for fuel economy and performance.

Racing engines don't need it because you don't loaf around at part throttle much.

The FI TR8 only has advance (as stock).

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
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Postby DNK » 08 Feb 2014 23:44

[quote]<i>Originally posted by darrellw</i>


Hi Don,<font color="red"><font size="3">1</font id="size3">.</font id="red">If the vac unit isn't connected to vacuum, then you should be able to remove it,<font color="red"><font size="3">2</font id="size3">.</font id="red"> but you may then have to find a way to fix the points plate (I know it isn't really points) so that it doesn't rotate. I don't know what the guts of your dizzy looks like.

<font color="red"><font size="3">3</font id="size3">.</font id="red"> Not sure what your question is about the clamp. Seems like there is only one way for it to work?

-Darrell<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks Darrell
1. Since the ECM runs the dizzy the vac unit is not connected to any thing
2. The plate is already fixed. That's part of the GM FI thing.
All the guys with the Patton TBI has the same thing
3. Got the clamp worked out .

I tried to remove the unit but the screws to the plastic cover that seals the electronics are semi stripped and I think that funny head size.
So I was not able to remove it.
So, I will have to pull it and try to reposition it AGAIN

Thanks



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Postby FI Spyder » 09 Feb 2014 12:38

Why did you do you want to bother to remove it? Why not just leave it there? Mine's just sitting there. Many years ago the distributor vacuum had failed on my '71 Beetle do I replaced the distributor with a racing distributor (racing = better right?). Well it was a dog at part throttle but pretty good at the top half of rev range so that's how I drove it. Mind you those engines were pretty bullet proof and mileage wasn't a problem with the price of gas back then although the gas heater sure sucked up the gas when it was -20.


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Postby DNK » 09 Feb 2014 13:05

On the V8 the top hose sits very close to the unit.
And I am constantly fighting it,the hose, as i try to get the timing correct

Tight fit

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There is an MSD unit I am thinking about that I can lock out the plate on.
When I am a little more flush and the block is switched

Don
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Postby Cobber » 09 Feb 2014 17:26

Maybe you could fit the dissy 180 deg from where it is now, that would have the vac unit in front of the valve cover, hopefully with enough room for adjustment. In effect you'd be setting the timing to suit #6 cyl instead of #1. You would need to move the plug leads on the cap to suit, so you'd swap #1 with #6, #8 with #5, #4 with #7 and #3 with #2


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