Anonymous

Headlamps will not rise

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
nigel
Wedgling
Posts: 41
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 06:26
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Headlamps will not rise

Postby nigel » 16 Feb 2013 16:41

My headlight have stopped rising for no apparent reason I have bought and changed the relays but i cannt find the circuit breaker i have bought one but cannt find the old one in the fuse box anywhere.
if i wind them up manually with the lights on, then turn them off they go down fine. when i flash the lights they sometimes raise and lower but with no lights would a failing Pekton unit case all this if not any ideas???
please note i have the later type fuse box

john 215
TRemendous
Posts: 6867
Joined: 03 Dec 2006 17:12
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby john 215 » 16 Feb 2013 17:24

Hi Nigel,

Is there any ' clicking ' from the glove box when the headlamps are switched on using the headlamp master switch ? The ' circuit breaker ' is in the glove fuse box, it is self set, silver in colour with two wires out of its base normaly brown and brown / pink in colour. They tend to live behind the fuse box.

Cheers John

ImageImageImage Image
LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

nigel
Wedgling
Posts: 41
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 06:26
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby nigel » 16 Feb 2013 17:35

No clicking except when they are on way down
i have 2 brown wires which sound like what you are talking about but they have a fuse (new spade type connecting them together) did try it their but did not work this fuse has been their for years and i dont know what it does.

kstrutt1
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 299
Joined: 15 Jan 2010 14:34
Location:
Contact:

Postby kstrutt1 » 16 Feb 2013 19:10

If the breaker is ok ( or replced with a fuse) and it is both lights it does sound like it could be the pekton unit or swith, you need to set to it with a multimeter and wiring diagram checking every point in the circuit.
I managed to fix my pekton unit, if I remember correctly some of the tracts on the board had failed and a diode needed replacing.

nigel
Wedgling
Posts: 41
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 06:26
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby nigel » 16 Feb 2013 19:31

Thanks
Will have a look at the Pekton unit tomorrow will let you know how i get on.

Hasbeen
TRemendous
Posts: 6474
Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:32
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby Hasbeen » 16 Feb 2013 20:54

When ever one of my 7s has done this, & most of them have, the problem was always dirty connectors in the front of the engine bay.

Give them a quick clean with contact cleaner. If this works service them properly to avoid future problems.

Hasbeen

Cobber
TRemendous
Posts: 2486
Joined: 19 Sep 2005 10:03
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby Cobber » 16 Feb 2013 22:33

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Is it both lights or just one?
If it's both you need to look at what they both share, such as the circuit breaker, main switch, flash relay, high/low/flash switch, Pektron etc.
If it's just one then things such as the individual light elevation control relays, under bonnet connections, lift motors, earthing/ground points, etc come in to play.

Do the lights light up when they fail to rise?</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Ianftr8
Swagester
Posts: 900
Joined: 12 Dec 2007 17:09
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby Ianftr8 » 17 Feb 2013 08:34

I'm with Hasbeen on this one - if you can get them to work sometimes I would start with looking at the Red connector blocks (at the front of the engine bay just behind the lights).

Just giving them a waggle will probably bring things back to life, but it is worth pulling them apart and giving them a good clean up and a squirt of WD40.

AS ever please take care when winding up the headlights with the power connected - the motors and mechanism wont stop once it is started and will do nasty things to fingers etc!

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 31 years

nigel
Wedgling
Posts: 41
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 06:26
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby nigel » 17 Feb 2013 12:00

I have opened up the Pektron unit and D4 is burnt out any ideas what this is?

Vegas_M
Swagester
Posts: 504
Joined: 25 May 2005 03:02
Location: Canada
Contact:

Postby Vegas_M » 17 Feb 2013 12:12

There is more info about how they work here:
http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab/other/headlights/headlights.htm


Martin

[url="https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0BxOL0HRH5pDeNWRlOTVhZjgtMWE1Mi00ZWNiLWE3ZGYtOWNiODU1Y2JjOGQ0&hl=en_GB"]My TR7v8 Document Repository[/url]

john 215
TRemendous
Posts: 6867
Joined: 03 Dec 2006 17:12
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby john 215 » 17 Feb 2013 12:53

Hi Nigel,

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font color="blue"> I have opened up the Pektron unit and D4 is burnt out any ideas what this is?</font id="blue"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

At a guess an diode ??? If you can post a picture it may help.

Cheers John

ImageImageImage Image
LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

nigel
Wedgling
Posts: 41
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 06:26
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby nigel » 17 Feb 2013 13:24

John 215
dammed if i can get a picture on this site have followed the advise but all i get is error messages will keep trying

TR Tony
TRemendous
Posts: 2882
Joined: 29 Oct 2004 13:38
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby TR Tony » 17 Feb 2013 19:40

D4 is indeed a diode, and is part of the circuit for the up cycle of the pods - supply to the blue/purple wire (UK spec cars). So if burnt out no current will pass to the limit switches & hence the pods will not rise.

The pods will however go down after being manually raised as D4 is not part of the down cycle circuit.

That seems to fit with your symptoms - get a replacement Pecktron [:)]

Tony
ImageImage
<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

kstrutt1
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 299
Joined: 15 Jan 2010 14:34
Location:
Contact:

Postby kstrutt1 » 18 Feb 2013 11:51

Or buy a diode for a few pence and solder it in (worked a treat for me).

FI Spyder
TRemendous
Posts: 8917
Joined: 03 Jul 2006 19:54
Location: Canada

Postby FI Spyder » 18 Feb 2013 13:39

We get so used to replace rather than repair. A case in point is the ICU (integrated computer unit) on the second generation Integra which controls accessories, some times called the body module in other cars. They used cheap capacitors and in the long term most all have blown capacitors giving accessories problems. They have long been not available so people have learned they can take them apart, see the blown caps and replace with higher voltage ones for a few cents. My problem is I can't get at it (hidden behind fuse panel) as wiring is too bound up to access. I might tackle it some year as I can work around the problems it has given me (disconnect wiring to ignition key release and don't shift into park until car has warmed up).

The point is some times things can be cheaply repaired by the relatively uninitiated without spending significant money.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
Image

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 384 guests