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Cylinder head stud removing tool

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simon hubbard
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Cylinder head stud removing tool

Postby simon hubbard » 16 Apr 2008 10:14

Is the stud removing tool an essential thing to buy before attempting to remove head?

Thank you

Simon

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TRR676R Speke Built 2.0L Tahiti Blue TR7
1969 Mk2 Vitesse Convertible
1997 Rover 800 Vitesse Coupe

paul w
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Postby paul w » 16 Apr 2008 11:40

There is no argument that the head studs can be a 8u663r to remove,so
a stud remover is a good idea.But i used stilsons and penetrating oil
and alot of swearing - worked for me! Take your time easing the head
off the stuck studs,no point damaging it less its had its day.

See ya. Paul


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lebochet9
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Postby lebochet9 » 16 Apr 2008 11:45

Locking 2 nuts together on the threaded part of the stud can help too. Thorough dosing with penetreating oil and leaving to act for 24 hours is a good plan. Liberal coats of copper grease on reassembly is the other thing.

1980 DHC TR7-V8 (was an 8V, then a Sprint)
Back on the road after 3 years restoring...

john 215
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Postby john 215 » 16 Apr 2008 21:47

Hi,
Lubricate everything that needs to be removed, studs i would leave soaking in penertrating oil for a couple of days and then try 'double nut' method. if that dont work then there are several alternative.
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)
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1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6 WILL BE ON THE ROAD VERY SOON!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 17 Apr 2008 03:46

On my engine nothing less than welding the nuts onto the studs would have worked.
If you plan on replacing the studs anyway I would cut to the chase and break out the welder straight away.

Good Luck!
Rich

BTW: Nice looking Speke FHC! My car started out as French Blue and I am hoping to repaint it the original colour eventually.

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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simon hubbard
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Postby simon hubbard » 17 Apr 2008 13:16

Gosh, thank you for nice comment about my car, i've not had one before! I bought the car off ebay about 18 months ago. I liked it because it had a nice history, it has had 3 previous owners but was been in the same family before i bought it, the wife got it first, then it was registered to her husband and then back to her again before i got it. i have the original bill of sale with obviously its purchase price but also the sunroof and radio that were fitted as dealer options - which it still has fitted. So it is a really original car. The original tyres were on it when i got it, and all the panels bar one wing are original. it is a 4 speed manual and has an original mileage of 43K miles.

As you can gather from my question the head gasket has gone along with numerous other parts and i am hoping to have a go at the head myself as i cant afford a garage to do it.

But thank you anyway.

Simon

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TRR676R Speke Built 2.0L Tahiti Blue TR7
1969 Mk2 Vitesse Convertible
1997 Rover 800 Vitesse Coupe

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 17 Apr 2008 14:03

The head is the ugliest job I have tackled on my car. It's not technically difficult, I would have had it done in one day if not for those awful studs. Once you get them out the rest is a breeze.

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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Beans
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Postby Beans » 17 Apr 2008 17:44

You could of course try removing them "by the book" [:D]
it really works ................ sometimes if you're lucky ...

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In this case one stud really could be removed with a screwdriver.
Three only needed two nuts locked together and a normal spanner.
Last one put up a small fight, but after an extra hour of soaking with penetrating oil and regular (light) taps with a hamer, it also surrendered.
But the studs had been soaked in penetrating oil for nearly a week before starting on them.
Also left the bolts in place to avoid extra tension/friction on the studs.


<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

flynns tr 7
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Postby flynns tr 7 » 18 Apr 2008 21:49

You can also try using an impact srewdriverworks sometimes but make sure nut is screwed to the top ofthe bolt to stop srew slot splitting aso plenty of penertrating oil.Another tip is also to use brake fluid this also tends to remove rust but watch your paint work.

john mc nulty
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Postby john mc nulty » 19 Apr 2008 12:33

I started to do the head on my 7 soaked the studs got two out with a bit of a fight, Done the two nuts way on the other three tried welding nuts on with one comming out got a stud remover and tried that only to snap a stud have not had time to get back into it but have a V8 to go in place of the four once its rebuilt. So I never had much luck with the stud remover soak them for as long as you can I think that is the best way.

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