Phil, sorry for the delay, but I'm not able to get to the computer as often as normal. My laptop's got a power jack made by Lucas. [}:)]
You need to use a fairly low setting for bodywork thickness steel. According to the [url][/url]Make sure the steel you're practising on is clean and shiny (run over it with a flap wheel in an angle grinder), and that if it's galvanised, that you've got the zinc off. Zinc's very bad news - it contaminates the weld, and the fumes can make you ill.
The right wire speed will make a nice 'sizzling bacon' sound. Too much wire speed will cause the torch to stab as the wire hits the metal. Too little, and the arc will splutter and the wire will burn back, possibly welding itself to the tip. If you burn through, drop the power and/or move faster. If you don't get enough penetration (Look at the underside of the weld. There should be some discolouration, but not too much build-up), move slower and/or up the power. You don't need big long beads when welding bodywork. Stitch it by welding an inch or so here and there, movng around to minimise distortion.
Trouble is, the arc with gasless wire is harsh and spattery, with a bright light and lots of smoke that make it hard to see what's going on.
If you post some pictures on the mig welding website, people will tell you were you're going wrong and offer some good advice.
Mark, Derby, UK.
'80 DHC Sprint - '95 Vauxhall Astra - '00 Vauxhall Zafira
http://www.marknotgeorge.co.uk -
http://www.eggsandantlers.co.uk
