Engine starts but will not move

[john]

Tried to run my TR7 yesterday. The battery has been on charge so no difficulty starting, although its not firing properly, but I couldn’t select any gears.

I thought it might be slave cylinder, there is pressure in the clutch pedal and the master cylinder reservoir is full. No obvious signs of leaking from the slave, and no evidence of leak on the ground under the car. Bummer really because I can’t move the car.

Any ideas?


[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

[john 215]

Hi John.
Has your car been standing long? If so then the pressure plate has become seized to the flywheel prob by rust after the weather we have having.
Numerous way of unsticking,i normaly start in gear,you need a fair amount of space to do saftley ,and keep your foot on the clutch,normaly as you attempt to accelerate away the clutch will free BUT do on a long drive way or very quite road.I am sure other will have different methods.
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

The clutch disk do have a habit of sticking to the flywheel or the pressure plate. Since the engine will run, you are a step ahead.

Start your engine and let it run to heat up the clutch assembly.

Now you have two choices.
1. Block the wheels and set the hand brake. With the engine off, put the trans in 1st or reverse, push the clutch peddle to the floor and use the starter to try and brake the clutch loose.

2. Pull the car to a road where you have a long run or to a car park where you can drive around in a circle. Put the car in 2nd, push the peddle o the floor , turn on the ignition and have the car that pulled you now push the car to start it. Once started, drive the car in a circle with the clutch peddle still to the floor. Blip the gas to put tention on the clutch plate. This usually only takes about a minute to loosen the clutch. Now drive the car home.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

[Rich in Vancouver]

First things first. Confirm that the hydraulics are actually operating the clutch.
With someone working the clutch pedal visually confirm that the rod from the slave cylinder is moving a sufficient amount to operate the clutch when the clutch pedal is depressed.
Then move on to the steps above.
Good luck!
Richard

1975 TR7 ACL764U

[Chris Turner]

John, Rex described a way to free off the clutch in the last mag.

www.triumphtr.co.uk
SJW 539S TR7 sprint
1980 TR7 Premium.

[john]

Your right Chris i knew i'd seen that somewhere [:D]

I'm actually asking this question for a freind and thought i would direct Nigel here as a two fold ploy [:D]

But i did forget that it was in the last mag DoH!

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

[bmcecosse]

Often the heat from the engine soaking through can free the clutch. So well worth letting it idle away for up to an hour and see what happens. The other methods are all quite brutal! You may of course be forced to remove the gearbox (or engine) and renew the friction disc. I have seen them so badly stuck to the flywheel that they just cannot be saved.