Rear brake lines

[UKPhilTR7]

l have just rebult my rear brakes and today I went to put the lines back in. However, the line from the front servo going to the drivers side wheel cylinder will not go in. From memory this line goes into the hole where the bleed nipple goes into. Then the line across the axle goes into the wheel cylnder main holes both on the drivers side and the passenger wheel cylinders.

I have two questions:
Is the set-up that I have mentioned above correct?
How do you get the line into the dricers side (where the bleed nipple goes into) as it is on an angle and it just does not want to go in?

[saabfast]

I can' remember either but logic would say that the line from the front goes to the bottom connection on the drivers side calliper and the line across the axle goes from the upper connection to the lower connection on the nearside with the bleed valve in the upper connection. Just thinking logically of chasing air through and bleeding the system, but then when have BL used logic....

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for the reply. So it seems like I have the lines going into the right holes, 50% there lol.

Does anyone have any tricks on how to get the line into the bleed nipple hole? Please do not say fit it before you secure the wheel cylinder. The pipe is not giving much play at all and it just did not want to go in. Any tips here would be more than appreciated.

[Hasbeen]

I have always found the 7 & 8 impossible to bleed & get a good pedal at a single bleed. It always required a second & a third bleeding, with some road driving between bleeds to get a full pedal.

I blamed this on that crazy rear plumbing system. So when I did the 8s brakes & installed a proper T junction on the right centre of the diff, & ran the usual individual pipe to each wheel from there.

I can now bleed the brakes just once & get a full pedal every time.

I suggest Phil, that instead of mucking with the thing, you install a proper pipe system instead.

If that is not your idea, try reversing the pipe, you may have it the wrong way round.

Hasbeen

[UKPhilTR7]

Cheers Hasbeen. I must admit that when I was under the car I was thinking why is there not a line to each side directly, so both bleed nippers can be kept and used. I think I will have to have a look into doing this soon. However, for now I have to get her running as soon as possible to get her shipped.

Did not try the changing of the lines over as I was not sure if this was advisable.

[UKPhilTR7]

Was also thinking of putting in flexible hoses to the cylinders to make it easier to fit.

What size thread is used 3/8?

[busheytrader]

I've used a Gunson eezibleed for years. Air bubbles flushed out fast. It was bought years ago for a classic Mini, now that's an absolute pig to remove air from if pumping the brake pedal.....

If you're fitting flexible brake hoses (as in changing all of them) , I like the braided ptfe type for a much firmer pedal.

[Beans]

... What size thread is used 3/8?

As stated on the label underneath the bonnet all brake and clutch components have metric threads!
The brake end fittings on a TR7 are M10x1

[UKPhilTR7]

I've used a Gunson eezibleed for years. Air bubbles flushed out fast. It was bought years ago for a classic Mini, now that's an absolute pig to remove air from if pumping the brake pedal.....

If you're fitting flexible brake hoses (as in changing all of them) , I like the braided ptfe type for a much firmer pedal.

Oh yes I have one of these. I brought it back with me after the last visit to the UK as I know this job was on the cards.

Yep that is the ones I was thinking of. I have the three on the car already but thought that flexible braised going to each wheel cylinder may be easier to work with. They would need to be secure though and not hanging free.

... What size thread is used 3/8?

As stated on the label underneath the bonnet all brake and clutch components have metric threads!
The brake end fittings on a TR7 are M10x1

Thanks for that. It is good to know that they use mode parts/sizes for once. Lol you are lucky to have the label still attached to your bonnet after all this time. Mine has gone missing in its 40 year life!

[Hasbeen]

Be more careful of Oz delivered cars. We have a label saying brakes may be metric or imperial threads. Either may have been used on Oz assembled cars.

Hasbeen

[FI Spyder]

It's been a while since I did my brake lines (when I pulled the rear axle to drop the tank for resealing). I had pulled the brake lines to polish them and paint the rear axle. I remember the line didn't line up as exactly as I would have liked but good enough to seal when tightened. At the rear bleed nipple always is at the top (air rises in a liquid) not sure off hand about configuration on the other side. I'd post a picture but since Photobucket went TU as far as usefulness goes I've not got to another storage site yet. I never had a problem bleeding brakes. I was going to go to silicone brake fluid but got scared off at last minute about other's difficulty in bleeding. I use a little plastic bottle with a one way valve in it that you hook up to nipple being bled, loosen nipple and just pump the brake. I bought one on sale at Princess Auto a while ago for $6 and a second one (when I lost connectors) at Canadian Tire for $10 (in Canadian money, you do the conversion). Been using them on all my cars for ten + years. No problems bleeding any of the cars, I usually do a second quick bleed after using the car a bit to get the last tiny bubble out after they'd had a chance to collect at nipple. I can lock all four wheels in an emergency stop and did so last year at Portland's British car show. I like Hasbeen's idea of the line possibly being reversed, worth taking it off and seeing if it fits better the other way.

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for the replies guys. It appears that the old pipe fitting (longer thread nut) is chewed up, thus the reason I could not get it back in. I could only find this by taking the shoes and springs out to get the wheel cylinder off. Was a bit angry when I took it all apart. Never mind. I also found out that the new pipe I had been sent had been made up with the smaller thread nut. As a result there was no way it would tighten up to make a nice fit and get past the brake back plate. I have a new pipe on order. The funny thing was that I thought the smaller line may need replacing so I ordered one at the same time as the local get rear brake line. Hoping to get the car back on the road sooner, only to find the nut was wrong. Lol it was one of them times when I had to say OK, it will not be back on the road this week.

[saabfast]

I've used a Gunson eezibleed for years. Air bubbles flushed out fast. It was bought years ago for a classic Mini, now that's an absolute pig to remove air from if pumping the brake pedal.....

My car failed the MOT at the weekend on imbalance of the rear brakes, specifically the left side rear not pulling its weight. Took it back home and pulled the drum but could not see any problem, no wheel cylinder leakage etc. Put it back on and bled it with the Eezibleed and took it back to the tester. Perfect balance, just some air made its way to the end of the system, but I had never felt it on the road.

[UKPhilTR7]

That is good to hear that you got it past the mot with the help of the Eezibleed. I will be using this too to help me bleed the brakes on my own.

I do think that a tee in the line to split the rear line and do away with the long lung from the one side to the other is the way to go.

[dursleyman]

Just preparing a spare axle to go in my "new" coupe and have been rebuilding all the brakes and pipes. I never seem to have the problems bleeding the brakes that folks have been talking about, but to make things easier I have used the Goodridge Speed Bleeder type on my other car so will be fitting them on this one as well. They have a one-way valve incorporated so you can do the job on your own.