Cylinder Head Studs

[HRL]

Hi Everyone - I am in the process of reassembling my TR7 engine. Yes, the head came off as someone had coated the studs and bolts with copper anti-seize. I would like to know how tight to thread the studs into the block before I install the head. I have looked in 2 manuals but have not found an answer.
I have 2 1980 TR7 DHC's that were built 1 month apart so I am driving one while the other is being worked on.
Thanks for your advice.

[Beans]

The studs have slots for a screw driver. Tighten them up with one and you should be fine.
Just make sure all threads are clean so the studs are fully in.

[HRL]

Many thanks. I can carry on now.

[UKPhilTR7]

I rememremember when I was putting my engine back together I said to my friend, who was helping me about using copper grease on the studs. He was not keen on the idea as he said they could work loose. So in the end we didn't use any. More the putty as it sounds like it was very useful for you getting them out.

[Hasbeen]

My 7 studs had no grease, but also no corrosion on them. This could be a factor of our climate, but they were just slightly oily to touch.

I believe some screw into the bottom of the hole & lock themselves, in the sane way that a lock nut works. I had 3 studs screw out easily with a screw driver, 2 required a nut to be welded onto the stud, [one twice when the light first weld broke, & the rest came with lock nuts.

All studs once started, even those that required nuts welded to them, came out easily with fingers, once started.

I screwed the new studs in fully by fingers, backed them off a turn, & fitted the new nuts with lots of grease on the studs. I hope this will prevent the nuts screwing the studs in tight, & stop them locking in again, if that is what happens. I'll report if ever I am unlucky enough to have to remove it again.

Hasbeen