Clutch M Cylinder Push Rod

[mak]

Hi,

Had my Clutch Master Cylinder replaced (original started dripping down pedal). New part is super, but have noticed push rod is longer than original which gives a long/high pedal.

Does anyone know if the old one will last if I repair it or how to tell if the bore is too worn? (also if it is worn, can you get them rebored?)

Also original one was a girling one which had a plastic tag around it, what does this mean? The tag is brown plastic and has a number stamped in it like old fashioned dymo (they don't seem to relate to a date). Is this an original thing or a sign it has already been rebuilt?

[FI Spyder]

Clutch and brake master cylinders can be rebored at Apple Hydraulics with either a bronze or stainless sleeve used.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[nick]

Same thing happened to me. Just take the old rod out and put in the new master. Pedal will be were it was before

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[busheytrader]

I've rebuilt and replaced a number of the clutch master cylinders over my 28 year ownership.

It's really easy to rebuild one of these with the overhaul kit and a lot cheaper. I've found that it's the rubber seal that eventually degrades at the top edge. That's probably where it's most susceptible to water and air ingression and eventually deteriorates. The bore wasn't corroded at all. So long as the new seal is treated carefully during the rebuild it should last several years minimum. The kits usually supply some red type grease that's needed for first fitment. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRK1029

IIRC the circlip is a bit fiddly to remove and replace but apart from that if you can replace one master cylinder for another then it's a n easy job.

Hope this helps

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

[mak]

Thanks everyone.

[mak]

Solved easily by swapping push rod. Old cylinder sorted by rebuild.

Found these guys, might be of use to someone? http://www.pastparts.co.uk/