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6 hours worth of work...

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TR7Aaron
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6 hours worth of work...

Postby TR7Aaron » 14 Oct 2011 00:30

Hey all,
Ever since I bought my TR7, one of the main things I HATED about it was the heavy, stiff, difficult steering. I've owned old musclecars with manual steering that didn't take as much effort as my TR7. I'm no weight lifter but I'm not a lightweight either, but this car was just NO fun for me to drive because of the steering, knocking suspension, idle problems, etc. So, I pretty much didn't. For the most part, it just sat with an occasional start up (when it would).
The past couple years have been difficult (health issues, unemployed, yadda,yadda,yadda) and I really didn't do much of anything with it except wipe it down occasionally. 2011 seems to be a turn-around year.
Over the past couple months, I solved the idling problem (more or less but it's acceptable to me), did a few small wiring jobs and ordered some parts. This past week, I had some vacation time. Today was 'do or die' for the TR7 as I had lost a lot of interest in it and was seriously considering selling it.
Here's what happened...
I took it for a test drive and consulted my list for things it needed and prioritzed them.
Replaced the steering column bushing.
Cleaned some electrical connections
Disassembled the front steering/suspension and using parts from a 1980 TR7 I had parted out, carefully reassembled everything using the best used parts I had. Way back when, I had installed needle bearings in the struts, so those were cleaned and regreased HEAVILY.
New gaiters (I call them rubber bellows, but that's me) & new spring cushions/insulators.
Greased the hell out of the steering rack - I pumped in about a whole tube of grease.
The ball joints and tie rod ends probably should be replaced They're tight and smooth but the rubbers on them are rotted), so that is to be done in the future.
This car was used for racing back in the day, so it has cam plates on it. Using my knowledge and 'by guess & by golly', I realigned the front end and took some of the camber out and just a touch of toe-in.
Tires were pumped up to 36 psi.
Went for another ride - WOW. The steering is now about 1/3rd the effort it was previously. It still takes some effort at parking lot speeds, but it's not too bad at all. The car ran great (don't they always when you start thinking of selling?) and started up at the touch of the key. Brakes operated fine and the car stayed straight on 'panic' stops. It tracked fine with no wandering or drifting. Just a little vibration through the steering wheel at 65mph. I even got it to squeal the tires once at a stop light - you just can hold back all 90 horsepower.
I think I'll keep her - the thrill is back!

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 Oct 2011 00:53

6 hours! When I brought mine back home July 9th (900+ miles) I thought I could spend a couple of weeks on it, pass the safety check, and have a summer of driving. When I realized I'd have to pull the dash to fix turn signals, refoam heater, clean electrical connections, I decided I'd do the whole thing and turned it into a winter project. July 12th the following year it was licenced and on the road. It takes me 6 hours to just wash and wax it. [:0]

Nothing like a nicely working car to hit the road on that sunny day.



- - - - TR7 Spider - - - - - - - - 1978 Spitfire - - - - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - - Yellow TCT
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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 Oct 2011 03:57

6 hours Aron, hell I put that much time into getting ready to do something these days.

Just be careful of all that grease. I gather too much tends to blow the gaiters, [bellows] as it is pushed into one side when you go on full lock, then splits them as you turn the other way. That's only hearsay, but keep an I on it.

Glad you've found that the steering can be OK. It would have been a pity to get rid of the car, for the want of a bit of grease.

Hasbeen

John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 14 Oct 2011 07:28

I know I've said this dozens of times on this forum but...
TR7 steering should be just about the lightest ever put on a non-power steering car with just a bit of effort required at parking speeds but even then it should generally be fairly light. If it's not then there is something wrong.

Next we'll get back onto the TR7 perpetual wheel wobble!

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphdvd.co.uk"]Triumph TR7 and other car documentaries on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

John Wood
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Postby John Wood » 14 Oct 2011 12:57

I find the steering fine, as you say John if they stiffen up to much there is something wrong. My Brother had an XR2 without PS and it was a joke at parking speeds and he always preferred my TR7

KDU483N
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TR7Aaron
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Postby TR7Aaron » 14 Oct 2011 13:14

John(s),
I guess there's lots of TR7's that are having heavy steering issues since the 'fix' is the various strut bearing kits. I don't expect to be able to park my car with one finger, but it would be nice to park it using just one hand. Since I will not be using this car for any sort of competition driving, I want it to be as easy and pleasurable to drive as possible, so I will be looking into ways to lighten my steering effort(s) even more.

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)
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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 Oct 2011 15:06

Aaron I don't think you want to go too light with a 7/8s steering. Our favourite cars are one of the shortest wheel base sports cars you will find suitable for regular use.

This makes them extremely responsive to your steering inputs, & a little weight on the steering wheel will help stop most drivers cause a snap back oversteer, which often leads to inverted cars.

I have recently bought a Honda S2000, which is a lovely car in all departments other than the steering. This is too quick, & too overpowered, so although they have a very good suspension, & are almost a foot longer in wheel base than the 7, they have a reputation for snap back oversteer, putting them into a fence, or upside down.

I am quite sure that the very quick very light steering has a lot to do with less experienced drivers getting into trouble, by over doing the opposite lock.

The MG F/TF had the same problem. We had a one design race series for them in the day in Oz, & it was a rare weekend when one of them was not inverted when over correction caused a snap back oversteer roll over.

I recently had a drive of Stag76's 7 Sprint. He has built a power steering rack for it, which was not too quick, & was also nicely weighted. It was a joy at lower speeds, but if I was going to drive quickly in the mountains, I'd rather my 7s steering which is stock, in mint condition, & perfect for fast driving.

One of the disadvantages of our long range forum is of course, I have no idea what yours is like. It may still be much heavier than mine.

Anyway, well done for giving it a clean up, & bringing the car back to usefulness.

Hasbeen

Dan B
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Postby Dan B » 14 Oct 2011 20:02

For the time being, you can buy those rubber boots for the tie rod ends at the auto parts store.

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