Anonymous

Heater cold air door.

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 May 2008 00:33

Caught again by that bl@@dy Atlantic ocean. Sorry for the
misinformation. I NOW see it all!!!!

My son wants me to fit a spare black dash I have, to the 8, which
has a grey dash. Having done this remove, & refit twice, I have told
him that he may do it if he wishes, but I'm not doing it again,
unless its a absolutely necessary. I don't think I have ever done
anything more boring, & frustrating on a car. Not difficult, just a
pain.

On my present 7 FHC, the fitting fell off the heater flap hinge one
day. Working from the footwell, by myself, I gently pushed it back
on. But, while getting back under the dash, after setting every
thing up, something had moved. The door did not shut fully. Damn.

Now the silly bit. I could not get it back off, & nothing I could
get into the space helped. I could have levered harder, with a screw
driver, but I would only have broken the thing. Deciding it does not
get that cold around here, I left it. I would have had to have
icicles on my thingamabob before I pulled the dash out.

I need not have worried, the thing fell off by its self, just 4
months later.

This time I got help, to make sure everything was in the correct
place, when I put it together. Great.

About 4 months later the bl@@dy thing fell off again. Using my now
experienced helper, I refitted it with LOCKTITE. That was 4 or 5
years ago.

I would say your car has had someone as clumsy as me, put the thing
back on, incorrectly, after it fell off, just like mine.

Nick, if I had to do the job on a US car, I would cut a hole in the
side of the glove box to get at the thing. It just pushes on, no
tools involved. Just make sure its in the right place, before
pushing. A 2 inch hole would probably do, but a 3 inch hole, if you
can get a hole saw in there, would definately do. I have a right
angle drive for a drill, for such jobs.

Thats how much I don't want to pull the dash out of another 7.

Hasbeen

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 May 2008 02:46

Hasbeen is right, pulling the dash isn't rocket science but it's not fun either, but before you drill that hole consider this:

If you pull the dash you can:

1. Pull out the heater to grease all contact points and make sure connections are tight so levers move freely. Clean all electrical contacts on control lever and make sure they are contacting well. Replace foam as it is probably crumbling or close to it. Clean water passageways.

2. Clean and dielectric grease all electrical contact connections in dash (and instrumental panel) to eliminate all problems from that area.

3. Vacuum and wipe all surfaces of dust. (Won't win any concourse points but YOU will know it is now as clean as the day it left the factory.)

If you do it right you won't have to do it again for a long time.... likely.... maybe.....

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 May 2008 07:38

F1, you've just given me 3 more reasons to drill that hole. I'd
rather go to the dentist, & have him pull my teath.

Yes, I know you are right of course, I even say myself, do it right
do it once, but when it comes to a 7s dash, all bets are off.

If I get round to fitting air con to the 7, I'll PAY SOMEONE ELSE
TO DO IT, all 6 hours my bloke charges.

Hasbeen

Beans
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Postby Beans » 14 May 2008 17:08

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

... The door did not shut fully...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I had the same problem with my Californian DHC, turned out that the brackets on the front of the heater had never been fitted ...

Image

Not really clear in the picture but there was absolutly no sign that there were brackets fitted at any time in it's life.
As a result the heater leaned over slightly preventing th eflap to close fully.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

nick
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Postby nick » 16 May 2008 01:46

Hasbeen, after all the pictures and descriptions which educated me about what to look for, I again removed the grill on top of the dash. I was able to get my left hand down to the white plastic piece with the two legs. And I could feel that the lower leg was gone. I could also feel the jagged edge where the brake occurred. With the second leg gone, the door opens when the slide switch is pushed down, but when the switch is pushed up there is nothing there to push the door closed so it just hangs there, flapping. Sooooo, I'm afraid I will have to get into it once I obtain a new part.

nick

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 16 May 2008 05:31

Nick, I've been 3/4 joking, its not that bad. You should be able to
find the bit at a wrecker, [or what ever you call them in the US].

However, when you do, its a perfect time to DE-RATTLE the dash.

I got some thin, 3/8" wide single side sticky foam neoprene rubber
stuff, from a boat shop. I stuck this between most of the bits of
plastic that could rub, or rattle, as I reassembled the dash. This
stopped all the squeaks & rattles developed over 28 years. Its
heaven.

Well worth the little extra work, once the thing is apart

Hasbeen

nick
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Postby nick » 07 Dec 2009 21:59

This thread dates back to May 2008 when I found my cold air door wouldn't close. I've now got the interior facia removed and would like to fix it. The part that is broken is pictured in this thread. It's the white plastic "A" cam. The lower arm is gone. It levers the cold air door closed. Does anyone have an old heater laying around that has this part?

nick

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 08 Dec 2009 06:50

Hi Nick,

Is the part you want the white plastic two pronged piece on the top right of this picture? I have a box of assorted UK heater bits after my heater rebuild that I posted on the forum a couple of months ago. I had to canabalise 2 units to make a good replacement.

If so I'll have a rummage amongst all the stuff in the garage when I'm able.

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Adam

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

nick
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Postby nick » 08 Dec 2009 17:25

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Hi Nick,

Is the part you want the white plastic two pronged piece on the top right of this picture? I have a box of assorted UK heater bits after my heater rebuild that I posted on the forum a couple of months ago. I had to canabalise 2 units to make a good replacement.

If so I'll have a rummage amongst all the stuff in the garage when I'm able.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That's the one. It attaches to the rod that hinges the air door. I don't know if it comes off of the rod end. The opposite end of the rod, on the other side of the heater, has one of those pop on fasteners. If removed, I believe the rod will slide out in the direction of the part and the air door will come off. If you can locate that part please email me for arrangements. I would be most appreciative.
willflyforcash@hotmail.com
Thanks.

nick

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