Misfire

[Beans]

Essential i.m.h.o. to know before you start tuning the car.
This is where the original pump is situated ...



... and this is how the original pump looks like ...



Sadly though there are at least two different variants of the original pumps available, with a short and long lever arm.
If fitted with a long lever arm there should be a spacer between pump and engine block.
The pump in the pictures above is off the later variety with the long lever arm + spacer

[Beans]

Since the above pictures were taken the pump on that car has been replaced with an aftermarket (short lever) item ...

[Monkeyzak]

I'll tAke a pic of this and the electronic ignition tomorrow

[Hasbeen]

Fuel pouring out of a carb is FLOODING. This is probably down to fuel pressure being too high.

Get your fuel pressure tested, BEFORE spending any more money on an unknown problem. Eliminate or confirm the cheapest possibility first.

Hasbeen

[Monkeyzak]

This is the electronic ignition I have. Don't know what it is. Don't know where to start to check if it's not working right.

[Beans]

Basics first, see if you have a spark at the plugs.
An assistant with insulated pliers is necessary here to hold the spark plug to a neg. earth while you turn the engine over.
If that's OK check the plugs fire at the correct moment, so check timing.

And as already stated check you have the correct pump and the correct fuel pressure.
Bear in mind these engine really are simple, they only need fuel + air and a spark at the correct moment to ignite it.

[UKPhilTR7]

Am I missing something as to me the pictures are showing a coil and a float chamber which looks like it could do with having the pipe's facing the other way.

As a side not I would take of all the cable ties and replace them with the correct metal clips.

[Hasbeen]

Sharp eyes Phil, but if you look again you'll see the float bowl top is just sitting on the bowl, not lined up or screwed down.

I am surprised at you though. The thoroughly modern Millie would never consider using a hose clip, where a zip tie would almost do.

Hasbeen

[BenTen]

I recently had/still have a very similar problem after fitting electronic ignition. (Don't know the name of company or type but it is NOT Lumenition. Dizzy was sent away by garage and modified to take Mitsubishi unit I think). At first ran ok but then after few weeks when it got hot it would stutter and misfire, particularly when pulling away from a junction. Very much an on/off thing. Felt like intermittent spark. Garage said the HT lead to the dizzy cap had a poor connection and had got worse over time and with heat. Fixed and ran ok for a bit but today after 30 miles of motorway misfire is back. Agggg

[skertonman]

Ben,

had a similar problem with a coil breaking down when hot, and when touched it was very hot.

[UKPhilTR7]

Good point Hasbeen, I didn't notice that it was not screwed down. Don't tell the wife or that will be another reason for her to force me to get glasses lol.

[BenTen]

Thanks skertonman. I will check the coil to see how hot it is getting.

[Beans]

Bear in mind every coil will get hot whilst the engine is running.
So it is not a fail safe method to determine whether it needs replacing or not

[UKPhilTR7]

Same here, when mine is running the coil also goes hot. Not burning hot but warm enough. There must be a way of checking the coil than just seeing if it is hot.

[BenTen]

My assumption is that if the coil is at fault it may get very hot, too hot to touch, compared to normal running temp ?