Door Speakers

bahbzilla · Postby **bahbzilla** » 25 Oct 2010 16:22

I have seen some threads discussing different options for stereo's and installation in wedges, but not much about the door speakers. I am planning on replacing my non-functional factory setup and was wondering about what size speakers I can use. The factory units seem pretty small (4 - 4 1/2 inches?). I have not had the door cards off yet so I am not sure how big the cutouts are in the door itself. I am more interested in decent sound than originality, but I am also not looking for window rattling wattage either. What is working well for wedge population at large?

Thanks,
Bob

1980 TR7 DHC

staningrimsby · Postby **staningrimsby** » 25 Oct 2010 17:03

Hi Bob,

I put the 5.25" edge speakers in mine as shown of the following link;

http://edgecaraudio.co.uk/products/edge-speakers/

The sound quality is very good for the price and they even come with ready made speaker wires in the box as well, obviously sound quality also depends on your stereo as well.

1980 2.0 DHC - Polly.

staningrimsby · Postby **staningrimsby** » 25 Oct 2010 17:04

Forgot to say Bob you also get a lovely black wire mesh that goes over them in case you don't like the tribal look.[:D]

1980 2.0 DHC - Polly.

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 25 Oct 2010 17:28

I have JL audio tr525-cxi coaxials speakers in the front

Professionally fitted See [url="http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/currency/GBP/products_id/4240.html"]HERE[/url]

Great sound well worth the extra money to get fitted right

also a wee bit of dynamat xtreme sound deadening

Professionally installed by Audio Advice Glasgow

A big difference in sound

Also have an Alpine under seat sub on the back bulkhead with it's built in amp

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If it's not broke don't fix it.

wedgewa · Postby **wedgewa** » 28 Oct 2010 03:02

Way back in 1982 when my car was nearly new, one of the factory speakers failed. Pretty bad speaker that couldn't handle even the BL original am/fm. I wanted original appearance and easy install so I shopped around for some small but quality Pioneers that would fit the original grills. Huge improvement in sound and they're still going almost 30 years later.

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 28 Oct 2010 05:53

Before I went all modern and high tech it was Pioneers I had fitted

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If it's not broke don't fix it.

195r13s · Postby **195r13s** » 28 Oct 2010 09:20

Thanks for a good topic Bob. I'm working on my doors too. But I had built some home stereo spkr cabs (w/15" JBLs) and I figured general principles apply. Like matching wattage to best spkr possible ($$$). The main problem, as I understand it, is the first law of spkr cabs: Isolate and dampen the back waves from the front, avoiding cancellation. Like the dynamax deadening that is pictured--nice!-- doors would have to be pretty well sealed up. Crack open a front door, for instance...you'll hear 50% of outside sound get thru 5% space. Same w/ sealing car doors. Plus, the bigger the cone (and the cone's travel) the more deadening would be needed.
But it being a car door!, and not 60 lbs of designed, baffled plywood, base wave cancellation is going to happen. Some kind of 'sub-base' unit necessary if you want punch.

Tom D
76 TR7 V6: Buick-Chevy-Ford drivetrain (some assembly still required)

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 28 Oct 2010 10:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by 195r13s

Isolate and dampen the back waves from the front, avoiding cancellation. Like the dynamax deadening that is pictured--nice!-- doors would have to be pretty well sealed up. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Correct 

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by 195r13s

, baffled plywood, base wave cancellation is going to happen.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have a MDF mount for the front speakers 

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by 195r13s

, Some kind of 'sub-base' unit necessary if you want punch.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes as the TR7 DHC has no back shelf with the hood down it is a challenge

That is why I went for the Alpine under seat sub on the back bulkhead

I really makes a big difference

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If it's not broke don't fix it.

bahbzilla · Postby **bahbzilla** » 28 Oct 2010 13:52

Thanks for the tips![:)] I am definitely not an audio-phile, but I want something that sounds decent on a fairly low budget. I am thinking of going with a JVC stereo, since some comments here indicate that the case size may be a little shorter than some other brands and there are some fairly cheap units out there with good reviews and the few features I am interested in. It sounds like the speakers will be 5.25 inches (undetermined brand as of now) with some sound deadening ala-Stevie. I like the idea of adding the sub-woofer at a later date after my meager budget has recoverd from the initial outlay of cash...

1980 TR7 DHC

trv8 · Postby **trv8** » 28 Oct 2010 16:00

Dynamat [:0]. Too expensive for what you get....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dynamat-Xtreme-Sp ... 27b5b5009d

This is similar to what I used in mine. A roll of this works out much cheaper than the Dynamat, but does just the same job....
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/72438/Sea ... &source=aw

I have...
JBL 6" component speakers in the doors Powered by a JBL GTO amp [:)] and,
two Rockford Fosgate 10" Punch P1's in the boot powered by Pheonix Gold amp [}:)].
The Flashing Tape does the same job and is a lot cheaper [^].

195r13s · Postby **195r13s** » 29 Oct 2010 13:39

Thanks to Stevie a and TR V8...Medium density fiberboard (MDF) as a backing mount seems a big plus. Labor intensive to match door curve, but cost is minimal and MDF is a preferred spkr cab material.
So: spkrs are mounted outside the steel; screwed (bolted) thru tightly sealed door; and into MDF.
Dynamat did always seem too expensive for what it was...flashing tape! (roofing?) Brilliant. Am looking for USA source.

Tom D

76 TR7 V6 FHC... in progress

RadioGuy · Postby **RadioGuy** » 29 Oct 2010 21:30

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Am looking for USA source.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Home Depot...Lowes, Ace

Maintained on Saturdayâ€¦Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

DNK · Postby **DNK** » 30 Oct 2010 00:29

Tom .you've seen the 1/8" MDF haven't you. Works pretty well

Used it on my shift boot base

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Rich in Vancouver · Postby **Rich in Vancouver** » 30 Oct 2010 00:31

In my FHC I have Koss 5.5" coaxials in the doors and Pioneer 6x9 coaxials mounted in a panel made of 1" MDF attached to the top of the existing parcel bins. The vinyl in the bins had typically shrunk and the bins looked like heck and now look much better with the speaker platform. The speakers are mounted in the panel with a raised lip around the edge. Speaker cloth is stretched over the panel so that the speakers cannot be seen. The panel has self adhesive velcro around the perimiter to hold it onto the parcel bins requiring only one small hole through the bottom for the wires.
For soundproofing the doors, and the rest of the car I bought a 50 foot roll of a product called B-Quiet which is similar to Dynamat but much cheaper.

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

DNK · Postby **DNK** » 30 Oct 2010 00:37

Parcel Bins?
Am I missing something in my car?

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Anonymous

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