Paint quality

tipo158 · Postby **tipo158** » 25 Oct 2010 19:03

Just an observation.

I have been stripping the paint from on my '76 FHC, making sure there is no rust underneath. I have been using of those 3M rust and paint stripper Scotch-Bright-on-a-drill things. The appearance of the paint on my car was good. Because of this, I was surprised how easily the paint was coming off (most of the time).

Contrast this with the trunk/boot lid on my car. It came off of a 1979 car. It is taking a lot of effort with the stripper to get the paint off.

Guess this is consistent with the overall build quality of the Speke vs. non-Speke cars.

alan

Henk · Postby **Henk** » 25 Oct 2010 23:10

Maybe the bootlid was one or more times sprayed.

Henk

1980 TR7 US Convertible
1978 Mini Clubman Estate

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 26 Oct 2010 01:26

Not sure of early cars but my Solihill built Spider was painted with Thermo Plastic Acrylic. (TPA for short, TPA sticker still on LH turret). It is sprayed on then baked (hence the Thermo) to give the glossy black finish. (Apparently Jaguar and Rolls Royce also used this paint). It is not chemically resistant and would come off very easily with any stripper. I suspect your trunk lid from another car was painted probably with two pack epoxy as enamel and lacquer would come off very easy with stripper.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

tipo158 · Postby **tipo158** » 26 Oct 2010 15:48

Interesting.

There are a couple of spots that were the paint has chipped where one can see that the paint is on thick. The paint on the inside of the trunk lid isn't as thick and the stripper goes through it fairly easily.

Could be a respray. If so, they did a pretty good job of matching the color. And they put new TR7 decals on it.

The car looks interesting stripped to bare metal.

alan

Red · Postby **Red** » 26 Oct 2010 16:28

What stripper are you using?

I've tried a couple of different ones on my car ('76, speke) and virtually nothing shifts the paint. The outside has been resprayed so fair enough, but even in the engine bay where it's all original nothing short of a grinding wheel will touch it.

In fact, I've found the paint on this to be more solid than on any other car I've tried.

Garry

1976 2.0 (soon to be 3.5!)FHC
http://reds-tr7.blogspot.com/

tipo158 · Postby **tipo158** » 26 Oct 2010 17:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Red

What stripper are you using?

I've tried a couple of different ones on my car ('76, speke) and virtually nothing shifts the paint. The outside has been resprayed so fair enough, but even in the engine bay where it's all original nothing short of a grinding wheel will touch it.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The stripper is one of these:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 1KLZKG1Vbl

It goes through the original Mimosa Yellow on my '76 ACL car quite easily, as it does the underside of the trunk lid. However, it takes some work for it to get through the outer side paint on the trunk lid. The trunk lid came from a DHC, but I don't know what year or, as suggested above, whether the paint is original.

alan

RadioGuy · Postby **RadioGuy** » 26 Oct 2010 21:19

If you want to remove almost any type of paint use something that contains Methylene Chloride. Methylene Chloride is used in aircraft paint stripper.

I guarantee it will remove the paint all the way to the metal or rust which ever you have.[:p]

Maintained on Saturdayâ€¦Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

tipo158 · Postby **tipo158** » 27 Oct 2010 00:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RadioGuy

If you want to remove almost any type of paint use something that contains Methylene Chloride. Methylene Chloride is used in aircraft paint stripper.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No thank you. The furnace for my house draws air in from the garage. And my wife seems very sensitive to most chemical odors.

Mechanical methods of paint removal are much preferred at my house.

alan

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 27 Oct 2010 00:57

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tipo158
[br The furnace for my house draws air in from the garage. And my wife seems very sensitive to most chemical odors.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You wouldn't want to be using Meth Chloride then. I used POR-15 Stripper that had it. Not a good idea to be drawing garage air into furnace though. Carbon Monoxide, auto combustion products, garage chemicals etc. Building codes in many jurisdictions require the garage must be sealed off from the house for these reasons (seals on house/garage entry door, vapour barrier behind dry wall etc.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

tipo158 · Postby **tipo158** » 27 Oct 2010 16:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FI Spyder

[quote]Originally posted by tipo158
[br The furnace for my house draws air in from the garage. And my wife seems very sensitive to most chemical odors.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Not a good idea to be drawing garage air into furnace though. Carbon Monoxide, auto combustion products, garage chemicals etc. Building codes in many jurisdictions require the garage must be sealed off from the house for these reasons (seals on house/garage entry door, vapour barrier behind dry wall etc.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is a bit off-topic, but ...

I suspect that the problem is the filter cover on the furnace. The furnace has large duct that draws air from somewhere else. I have pulled off the insulation and there are no apparent leaks in the duct. But the cover that is removed to replace the filter doesn't seem airtight (or easy to make airtight and still have it removable for accessing the filter).

alan

jbsjim · Postby **jbsjim** » 27 Oct 2010 16:53

Again off topic. Most residential furnaces in the U.S. do not draw any air intentionally from a garage space (other than for conbustion) but instead draw all of their air to be heated from the return air ductwork in the house. By comparison, a hospital has to use 100% outside air (for obvious reasons). If you smell garage fumes when your furnace is running you likely have some ductwork leakage that could be sealed better and you might want to weatherstrip the garage door that leads into the house too. It is not unusual for return air ductwork to be a bit undersized which creates a slight vacuum in the system making leakage worse. A lot of chemicals can be sensed at very low concentrations and nothing will keep the smell out of the house enough for my wife.
Jim

[IMG]

tipo158 · Postby **tipo158** » 27 Oct 2010 18:38

Continuing the off topic ...

Thanks for the info. There must be a leak somewhere along where it is drawing air in. Don't get the fumes where the furnace ducts don't run. Oh, boy! Another project!

Even after I figure it out, I still don't like using noxious chemicals and will stick to mechanical paint stripping. However, it will make my wife happy not to smell the occasional accidental fuel line spill.

alan

elsberry · Postby **elsberry** » 27 Oct 2010 18:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tipo158

Just an observation.

I have been stripping the paint from on my '76 FHC, making sure there is no rust underneath. I have been using of those 3M rust and paint stripper Scotch-Bright-on-a-drill things. The appearance of the paint on my car was good. Because of this, I was surprised how easily the paint was coming off (most of the time).

Contrast this with the trunk/boot lid on my car. It came off of a 1979 car. It is taking a lot of effort with the stripper to get the paint off.

Guess this is consistent with the overall build quality of the Speke vs. non-Speke cars.

alan

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

While trying the same stripping wheel on my original paint I had the same problem getting it off. The problem apparently is the thermoacrylic lacquer that was used on them, at least the later cars, don't know about the earlier ones. Too much heat and it melts and smears and clogs up anything you try to use. A sanding disk at a low speed will get it, but it's time consuming. That's what I used my kids for [:D]

Dave Elsberry
1980 US spec DHC
1974 Jaguar SIII XKE
1994 Jaguar XJ12
I need more garage space!

[url="https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B26QZc97k0noYTAxMzUxZjgtMzZkZS00MWEwLWEyZmYtOWRkMzliNWZhMDA3&hl=en"]My Triumph Document Repository[/url]

RadioGuy · Postby **RadioGuy** » 27 Oct 2010 21:58

I didn't suggest you perform the stripping indoors.

A Methylene Chloride based stripper will strip the paint in less than 15 min, 3-5 min has been the norm for me. They do make some low VOC strippers.

Take the car outside of the garage. Get a pressure washer, apply the stripper and wait until it lifts the paint and then spray it off. Don't let the stripper dry before you spray it off. After the paint has been sprayed off grab the leaf blower and blow it dry. Job is complete in a very short time.

Two people can completely strip a TR7 shell in less than 2 hours.

Better living through chemicals !![:p]

Maintained on Saturdayâ€¦Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

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