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Head Gasket???

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zekow1
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Head Gasket???

Postby zekow1 » 14 Sep 2010 20:43

I decided to look at my pictures and I believe the gasket I used " the standard one ,was not the correct one .
Here is the picture of the head before and after the rebuild.
WHat do you guys think??? Should i have used the thicker one??
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Nope!! it's still not running ,Maybe next week???
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Marsu
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Postby Marsu » 14 Sep 2010 21:02

Are those actually the same head, before and after face skimming?

Regardless, it's scarry how much has been taken off!!!

And yet from the photo it looks like, from the different metal texture that the surface between the cylinders does not match with the face surrounding cylinders on either of the long edges. (forgive my poorly description - hope it makes sense)

Did the machine shop say how much was taken off? Did they attempt to straighten out any bend before milling the face?

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Postby john 215 » 14 Sep 2010 21:09

Hi,

How much did you have the head skimmed ? , the purpose of the thicker ( 20 thou ) gasket is to use after a skim, correct compression ratio and chain tension / timing.

Cheers John

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 Sep 2010 21:10

Looks like they took off a bunch. Should use a thicker gasket to compensate for the amount taken off. How did the bolts/studs fit in the holes?


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jbsjim
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Postby jbsjim » 14 Sep 2010 23:12

Zeke,
The machine shop should have checked the thickness before skimming to see if there was enough there to work with. My last head was warped too much with the marginal amount of metal that was still available (milled before once or twice). The replacement had never been skimmed (full spec) and so it was a no brainer. I still used the thicker gasket. That said I thought the primary issue was whether the studs and bolts would both actually line up because of their geometry. Take off too much and they won't. I don't think there is an interference problem with a thinner head (valves touching pistons) but more informed sources here will answer that. If there isn't and the studs and bolts line up I think your compression probably went up but I don't see a major problem here. I don't think it's causing your engine knock - that sounds like a bearing (hope I'm wrong). Why don't you disconnect the dizzy, take out the plugs, squirt some oil in each plug hole and take a compression reading on each cylinder. That should give you an idea of what is going on in there.
Jim

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Postby jbsjim » 14 Sep 2010 23:16

Zeke,
Looking again at the pictures theu really took a lot off!
Jim

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Postby zekow1 » 14 Sep 2010 23:55

The bolts went in perfect . it does not leak .

The cylinders where all at 100lbs.

I am going to finish the fuel and air stuff installations

Finish with my dashboard/

and If it still is not working right ???

I already sent out to get the thicker gasket.

I will then have to take the whole thing out again and place a thicker gasket.

Thank you guys for your opinions i should have noticed it earlier
A daaaaaaa!!!

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EntonoX
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Postby EntonoX » 15 Sep 2010 07:55

As i look at the pictures i don`t think they took a lot of the head. remember that in pic 1 you see carbon settings on the head where pic2 is nice and clean.

If this is the first time the head is done i go for a normal gasket, if it is the second time (or more) i go with the thicker one.

I assume the machine shop took care of this, and they can help you with choosing a gasket.

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Postby Stag76 » 15 Sep 2010 07:57

The amount milled from the surface of the head affects the compression ratio, valve-piston clearance and camshaft timing. You measure the head height (using vernier calipers) from the bottom of the half moon shaped cutout on the end of the head to the head surface. The minimum head height for use with a standard gasket (from memory) is 112.4 mm or 4.427 inches. If it is less than this, you should use a thicker gasket to compensate. There is also a minimum thickness (which I can't remember) after which the thicker gasket won't compensate enough. The main problem with this is the camshaft timing, but vernier cam wheels are available that allow the timing to be adjusted so the head can be used provided the valve-piston clearance is OK. I think USA spec engines have lower compression pistons, so valve-piston clearance might not be a problem

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 15 Sep 2010 17:50

I am with Entonox here, doesn't look to extreme to me.

If still in doubt do as Stag76 suggested and measure the amount that's been taken off.

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jbsjim
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Postby jbsjim » 15 Sep 2010 18:15

Zeke,
I looked at the head that I took off (it warped when it overheated) and it looks a lot like your milled head so maybe you're OK. The cam timing issue brought up by Stag76 is one I hadn't thought of.
Jim

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Postby zekow1 » 16 Sep 2010 20:01

The Timing
I didn't think of that either.
I am not going to worry until I finish the re-asemble of the fuel system and dash.
It's ok , It's Ok , It's Ok maybe if I say it several times more it will fix itself??? [:D]


Nope!! it's still not running ,Maybe next week???
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Postby jbsjim » 16 Sep 2010 20:25

Hang in there. Remember she's 30 years old. A TR7 is like a beautiful woman who needs a bit of attention now and then so you won't forget her. Who remembers their last drive in a Honda? I own one and I certainly don't! It's all worth it!
Jim

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Postby DNK » 16 Sep 2010 22:47

It's a 7 that's why that head looked funny.
(head smack)

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Postby Stag76 » 17 Sep 2010 06:33

The valve timing is not hard to fix...you can use a vernier cam wheel, or drill another set of holes in the existing sprocket.

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