Front strut cartridge

[pupinabox]

I am trying to remove the front strut from the tube. Any ideas on how to remove this "nut", if that is what it is. Keeping in mind I don't have a huge selection of tools i.e. air tools.


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[V8Wedgehead]

I use a vice and large channel lock pliers or pipe wrench. Once it breaks loose your good.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC #0020 Rally Conversion

[bmcecosse]

If need be - carefully apply a little localised heat around the neck of the tube.

[saabfast]

If it is original there may be a locking 'dimple' punched in the tube to lock the nut. This needs to be drilled out to release the nut.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

[bmcecosse]

Ahhh - yes! I forgot about the dimple!

[V8Wedgehead]

The dimple must be a UK & europe thing. I have never seen that state side.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC #0020 Rally Conversion

[Hasbeen]

The first mention of this dimple was in a post by jclay, I think.

I can't imagine it would have had anything to do with Triumph, they would have just ordered struts to drawing, & the manufacturer would have "dimpled" them as they thought necessary.

Hasbeen

[FI Spyder]

The dimple was to lock in the nut. My California spider had it. I didn't know about it at the time and just wrenched it off with a monkey wrench and extension pipe for leaverage.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Beans]

Never seen anything remotely like a dimple on the struts top.

I had a few issues though with aftermarket strut inserts (which were slightly wider).
They didn't properly fit due to the struts tube being deformed slightly where the bracket for the brake hose was welded on.

If the lock nut doesn't move, that's because it is rusted solid to the strut.
So you'll need penetrating oil and patience, or heat.
But the last option will ruin the insert.

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[bmcecosse]

Not if it's just a little local heat - Chef's flambé gas torch is ideal........ Just don't let the 'chef' catch you using it!

[pupinabox]

Looked it over and did not find a "dimple".

The solution: Go to the tool store and find a $15 Mother-of-all wrench and it popped right off with some help from Mr. PB Blaster. Yeah.


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[Workshop Help]

Perhaps, my friend, you may want to clean your spectacles. I see the dimple as clear as day in your second photo thru my spectacles.

Mildred Hargis

[pupinabox]

After proper spectacle application I see said "dimple". If that is what is supposed to hold the nut in place, the dimple maker must have been asleep at the switch cause that little "dimp" ain't holding anything.

But EUREKA, success!!


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[gingerstu]

Glad to see it's all done.

I am just picking up where I left off with my '7 from 18 months ago (having a house extension built & temporary loss of garage scuppered progress) and am in the process of sorting out the front suspension.

When refitting the strut, should some sort of sealer be used on the top face of the stut top so that it seals against the inner wing ?
and if so, should this sealer be seam sealer, or silicone sealer ??!

cheers
Stu

[pupinabox]

I don't think so, at least the manual I am using does not mention anything like that.

I am now having another bit of problems, though. Got the struts in the tower, the lower links in place, the steering bits bolted on along with the calipers, BUT NOW THE SWAY BAR THAT I TOOK OUT AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS SEEMS TO BE ABOUT AN INCH OR SO TO WIDE TO FIT BACK IN THE HOLES OF THE LOWER LINKS[V] ANY IDEAS?

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