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Which Engine Hoist / Crane - Engine Stand?

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busheytrader
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Which Engine Hoist / Crane - Engine Stand?

Postby busheytrader » 18 Jul 2010 11:39

I was given a Mini Cooper Spi to restore last Christamas. Once it's sorted, hopefully my skills will have improved to bring the 7V8 up to standard.

Lifting out a Mini and gearbox doesn't require a massively strong crane but the V8 / gearbox combo will be a different matter. When I performed the V8 conversion back in '91 I hired the only one available from the hire shop, a heavy duty item with chains. So what should the rating be? 1 tonne? 2 tonne? The same question for an engine stand as well?

I've been watching these these items selling through ebay? Why do bidders regularly bid over the retail price for 2nd hand items, when a shop is selling a brand new one for less? Auction fever?

Thanks in advance,

Adam

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Marko
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Postby Marko » 18 Jul 2010 12:59

most of the 1T cherry picker cranes when fully extended can lift 250kg,

should be more than enough for the V8 engine.

The prices are like that probably because the new cranes are much cheaper to produce. i would rather buy a new one with all new seals, rather than an old and misused. Most of the old hydraulic cylinders are slowly leaking.

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 18 Jul 2010 14:35

Thanks Marko.

I'll be looking to take out the engine and box together as before. Will that spec of crane still work?

Thanks,

Adam

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Postby saabfast » 18 Jul 2010 16:50

Not sure what the engine weighs but a dry box is around 30kg according to the manual. I'm just trying to build up the strength to get mine out!

Alan
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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 18 Jul 2010 16:51

The RV8 weighs about 150Kg & your entire car will weigh < 1200Kg/1.3 tons.

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trv8
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Postby trv8 » 18 Jul 2010 17:16

Just check the jib length...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands

Prefer 4 wheels...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands

And this...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands

I love spending other peoples money [:D] [:D] [:D].

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 18 Jul 2010 18:03

I bought a crane from Harbor Freight that has folding legs. It's nice enough but the lift arm is too short to lift the engine without removing the front bumper.

I bought a new crane with a longer lift arm but I have not assembled it yet. Measure how far it is from the front of your bumper to at least the middle of your engine. That will be the <u>minimum</u> length for the lift arm.

Remember, that you will have to really angle the engine to remove it with the transmission attached. It also helps the raise the rear of the car as much as possible during the engine removal.

This will give you an idea of the angle. Note the adjustable bar used to change the angle of the engine.

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pupinabox
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Postby pupinabox » 18 Jul 2010 18:38

This is the crane I am using for my conversion. Harbor freight, also, and JClay is correct. The front end of the car is long and you will probably have to remove the bumper. I took out the engine/transmission and subframe all attached and dropped it out instead of going out thru the top. If anybody has pictures of where they attached lifting points on the V8 I would be curious as I am about to remove one and don't really know where I am going to attach the crane!!
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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 18 Jul 2010 20:32

When I converted to a V8, IIRC, I had the rear of the car up on ramps and had to let the air out of the front tyres to get engine / gearbox combi in and out of the car.

The gearbox tail slid up and down the garage floor on a trolley jack.

Thanks,

Adam

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 18 Jul 2010 21:01

Pup, on some RV8s the lifting eyes come as a factory fitting. They are bolted onto the ends of the cylinder heads, 1 at the right front & the other at the left back where there are pre-drilled threaded hole in the heads. If you don't have the eye plates then just find bolts to screw into the heads & use a washer to prevent the chain from slipping off.

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pupinabox
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Postby pupinabox » 18 Jul 2010 21:17

I will check it out thanks.

[IMG=left]http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t194/pupinabox/353.jpg[/IMG=left][IMG=right]http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t194/pupinabox/tr7005.jpg?t=1271517043[/IMG=right]

Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 18 Jul 2010 22:25

I have honestly found that it is easier to lift body off the front suspension.

I do it this way:

Disconnect propshaft, gearstick, fuel, wiring and front brake hoses! (easy to forget those brake hoses)
Take off front road wheels and lower car down so that the front crossmember is resting on a trolley
Undo 4 chassis bolts
Undo the three bolts holding the struts
My crane (same as the others shown) lifts off the front bumper mounts and up she comes

The whole thing just rolls out on the trolley and is a joy to access and work on compared to going from the top.

Additional benefits are:

This allows you to work on the subframe together with all bushings, steering gaiters (grease the steering as it has not been done for years) plus the struts and strut gaiters.

Anyway, for me, the steep angle for getting the engine out from the top combined with the risk of scratching your paint is just real awkward.

Jolyon


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Marko
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Postby Marko » 18 Jul 2010 22:33

that workshop equipment is so cheap .

here is at least 50% more expensive

trv8
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Postby trv8 » 18 Jul 2010 23:11


jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 19 Jul 2010 12:49

Front one:

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I used this bracket bolted to the intake manifold to put the engine on the stand.

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