Rust on rear chassis members

[dursleyman]

Just had my TR7 DHC in for its annual test which it passed OK with no problems but the tester made an observation about some surface rust on the rear chassis members.
Its on top of the two chassis rails under the boot floor. They extend from the rear bulkhead back under the boot(trunk) floor where there is about a two inch gap between the top of the chassis and the floor. You can feel some surface rust on top of the chassis rails if you run your hand along them. Its not posible to see without a mirror.
Question is, how on earth do you deal with that? [?]

Russ
1980 TR7 DHC

Dursley
UK[?]

[RadioGuy]

POR-15


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

[REPLIC8]

Remove the rear axle & the fuel tank, then there's plenty of room to get in there & sort it out. If it's only surface rust a good clean up then a couple of coats of hammerite should see you OK. Just re-done mine after 18 years & still in great condition. [:)]

[img][IMG]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr92/REPLIC8-2008/small_P2130315.jpg[/img][/img]

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

[busheytrader]

Access is so much better once the fuel tank and rear axle are out of the way. You can actually get your head up there to see what needs doing AND do the remedial work without being a contortionist.

If you haven't had to replace your tank yet, you will in the near future as they rust from the inside out. [:0] You have to drop the rear axle to replace the tank, then there's lots of room to clean up those chassis legs.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[FI Spyder]

Usually UKer's use Hammerite, N/Aer's use POR-15. I don't know about Hammerite but POR-15 is moisture activated, when is cures no solvent will touch it, the closest thing you can get to liquid powder coating. My above tank area was like new so I just waxoiled it (ProForm). While you have your tank out good time to seal it (use POR-15 kit or it will fail in future (why I had to do mine.) Tank is easy to take out (have it near empty helps) if you take out rear suspension. Good time to POR-15 rear axle and upper/lowers links. I hate doing just half a job.[8D]








TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[dursleyman]

Thanks for all the advice guys you make it sound really easy, I guess that will be a job for next winter then.

Thanks Russ [:)]

1980 DHC
Dursley
UK