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Electrical Investigations

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TriumphCMT
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Electrical Investigations

Postby TriumphCMT » 20 Jun 2010 21:50

I've been having problems lately with my electronics due to stupidity on my part. When I was upgrading my horns(putting new ones in), I left the battery connected to hear what they would sound like. Not paying attention, I grounded out the wires and BZZZzzz![:(]

Now my horns, headlight motors, dash lights, and front sidemarkers don't work. My car won't start either.[V]

So I replaced all the relays and fuses since they are old anyways. The car starts now but everything else still is broken (I didn't try the horns yet).

I started testing wires for power everywhere to see what is not working exactly. I got really frustrated of the dash being in the way so I pulled it out.[:(!]

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As you can see I need the foam around the main vents, which was on my to-do-list. Guess i'll do it now.

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After doing some testing and studing the wiring diagram, I found out the reason my headlights were not working is because the relays were not getting any power. The reason for this is due to a little thing called "Headlamp motor circuit breaker." (Picture Below)

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Excuse the long dirty fingernails[:I]

The location of this circuit breaker is under the fuse box. (at least thats where I found mine)

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Does anybody know where I can get a replacment[?][?]

I tried looking for one on victoria british but got nothing.

If not, what kind of fuse can I put in there to take its place[?][?]

Hopefully after fixing that my headlight motors will start working again and I can start on something else to fix.


- Chris

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Henk
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Postby Henk » 20 Jun 2010 22:09

I've put in a blade fuse, works good.

Henk
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1980 TR7 US Convertible
1978 Mini Clubman Estate

TriumphCMT
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Postby TriumphCMT » 22 Jun 2010 03:50

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Henk</i>

I've put in a blade fuse, works good.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks for the reply Henk. I'll do that then. What amp should I use?

- Chris

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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 22 Jun 2010 05:16

It's part no. 151244

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006242

A bit pricey at £24.25 from Rimmers..........

Adam

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

willywonka
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Postby willywonka » 22 Jun 2010 08:22

You could try RS Components

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... Range=Fuse Links & Circuit Breakers#breadCrumb


Or Maplins

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=12435

All the Gear, no idea

Henk
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Postby Henk » 22 Jun 2010 08:52

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TriumphCMT</i>



What amp should I use?

- Chris

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I've used a 15 amp fuse.

Henk
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1980 TR7 US Convertible
1978 Mini Clubman Estate

zekow1
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Postby zekow1 » 04 Dec 2010 01:21

TriumphCMT
How did you do with your swap of a 15A inline fuse instead of the circuit braker ???
I never had a problem with my light
Till today
I spent several Hours and came out empty handed..
Read this post and now know where to find the circuit braker.


Nope!! it's still not running ,Maybe next week???
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 04 Dec 2010 16:16

Soooo...you tried to make a mini arc welder, eh? Now is the time to clean all electrical contacts while you are checking all electronic components. Foam the heater and lightly lube the moving parts in the heater contols and make sure the adjustments are correct for the heater controls. I would clean all electrical contact areas in the back of the instrument panel using something like Brasso to clean up the contacts pins and copper surfaces of the plastic circuit strip. Gauges will read more acurately and lights will be brighter. Clean the resting point of the tach needle to prevent common needle stick at start up (search the forum for instructions). Good time to clean all fuses and fuse holders. Do everything you can think of under the dash like cleaning and lubing gas/brake/clutch pedals etc. when they are more easily accessible. Doing preventative maintenance now should mean you won't have to pull out the dash again usually ta few days before that car show next summer you really wanted to make.

If it's winter in your area now's the time to do it, not when the sun is shining and birds are singing.

Edit, I see your in San Antonio, no winter, but would do it now any way.[:p]


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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zekow1
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Postby zekow1 » 04 Dec 2010 16:47

I did all that last week. trying to find the problem
of why the light motors all of a sudden stopped working .
The lights work but not the motors.

And down here its winter ,that means we don't have to hide in the air condition caves anymore ,
pefect time to lower the top and let the fresh air in.
The heater ???
don't know what that is.

Nope!! it's still not running ,Maybe next week???
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UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 04 Dec 2010 20:40

I had this problem with my lights not going up, but the lights were on. I found out that it was my circuit breaker too, such a little thing giving such a big problem. The one way I was told to test it was to take the breaker out and to put a cable across the two contacts. If the lights go up and down then that was the faulty unit.

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frankman
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Postby frankman » 07 Dec 2010 22:19

- try it once with high Beam then switch the light on .. maybe it works - but you still have to fix it ..(but you can drive)

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

zekow1
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Postby zekow1 » 08 Dec 2010 21:46

Went in today took the fuse box out to find the circuit braker.
It's not there.
Looked all around the area no luck.
Checked the inside of the engine bay by the air condition brakers ,no luck either.Nor behind the battery area.
Is it possible that mine 1981 EFI tr7 doesn't have one???



Nope!! it's still not running ,Maybe next week???
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 09 Dec 2010 00:38

b<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by zekow1</i>

Went in today took the fuse box out to find the circuit braker.
It's not there.
Looked all around the area no luck.
Checked the inside of the engine bay by the air condition brakers ,no luck either.Nor behind the battery area.
Is it possible that mine 1981 EFI tr7 doesn't have one???
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

1980 US FI has one according to wiring diagram, should be located on lower left corner of fuse box. Haven't visually checked mine. Not sure about 81 as my factory OEM manual only goes to 1980.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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TriumphCMT
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Postby TriumphCMT » 21 Feb 2011 06:37

Wow, I was just going through some old posts and stumbled on too this one.

I laughed so hard when I read this.[:D]

All of my problems in this post was due to a dead battery and a old, non-working alternator.

...what my TR7 puts me through...[xx(]

P.S. my horns do work now. All I had to do was ground them correctly.[:I][xx(]

- Chris

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trekcarbonboy
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Postby trekcarbonboy » 21 Feb 2011 12:33

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TriumphCMT</i>

Wow, I was just going through some old posts and stumbled on too this one.

I laughed so hard when I read this.[:D]

All of my problems in this post was due to a dead battery and a old, non-working alternator.

...what my TR7 puts me through...[xx(]

P.S. my horns do work now. All I had to do was ground them correctly.[:I][xx(]

- Chris

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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hehehehehe! Pulled out the dash for a dead battery! That's hilarious! I love it. Thanks for sharing that. Made me feel like I'm not alone in some of my endevors.
I'll bet all of your connections work well now though.

Craig
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