Points/Condenser change

[The Old One]

I am going to change points and condenser(81 dhc)
Have replaced dizzy cap rotor arm and plugs but
am confused as how to do it as i can not see
how to get near them.Used to working on old
skool fords with nice open bosch dizzys.
Any help and piccies showing how to get in
to do this.

cheers

Tony

[Beans]

You'll have to remove the rotor "arm" and retarding weights.
Even than it is still a bit of a squeeze ...

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[stevie_a]

<font color="teal"><b>Do what I did

If you are going to do it only do it once

get electronic ignition as it is a B to get into </b> </font id="teal">

[url="http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7055&whichpage=3&SearchTerms=ignition"][/url]

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

[saabfast]

Access is very difficult but I have never removed the weights. Setting the gap is even more of a pain as you need a very short feeler and it is still difficult to see when the points heel is on the cam. They also need checking/adjusting fairly often as they wear and go out of adjustment. As stevie_a, I have just changed to Ignitor electronic ignition (from Retro Rockets) and hope I will not need to look in there again. Certainly, once set up, the timing seems to be more steady and not move about.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

[Shauniedawn]

Just take the distributor out. It's much easier to do on the bench.

Shaun

[John Clancy]

Electronic ignition is great but it breaks eventually and then you're stranded. At least with points and condensor you've got a fighting chance of repairing it at the side of the road.

Points gap does increase quickly. Mine has just increased by 4% in 600 miles. However, if you have a dwell angle meter it's a simple process to reset and negates the need for a feeler guage. You may find that's all you need to do right now as when the gap is vastly out the car will run like crap! 39 degrees is the correct setting (+ or - 1 degree) and in percentage terms I believe that is 43.33%.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[Beans]

That's why on longer trips I always carry a spare dizzy with me.
If the electronics decide to go on strike it's only a few minutes work to swap dizzies, and set the timing.
But till date on both cars the electronic ignition has been faultless (by now 17 and 13 years old)
... knock on wood [:D]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[FI Spyder]

I used to spend many a sunday playing with the '71 Javelin playing with points and condenser. I did build an electronic ignition that was triggered by the points (cam follower still wears). (I also made water injection for it.) But the Spider, Tercel and Integra all have electronic ignition and the dwell meter has long been unused in a tool box and I have much more interesting projects to do than play with points. One never gives ignition a thought. If Yellow TCT doesn't have electronic ignition I will convert it over and keep the points and condenser in the trunk pack just in case the after market ignition fails.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[John Clancy]

I'd happily do away with points but having had electronic ignition cause three breakdowns in the past the most viable solution was to revert to the older technology. Almost gave Luminition a try a couple of years ago but since then I seem to have really got on top of keeping the points in tune.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[saabfast]

I was concerned about the reliability of electronic ignition, at least retrofitted to an old car, so left the wiring in place for the points system and drilled a second hole in the base for the electronic unit connections. I carry the points and condenser in the boot so could change back with not much more than the usual hassle of fitting points.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC