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mystery tr8

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
uspsmech
Wedgling
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Joined: 27 Nov 2009 01:53
Location: Rhode Island USA

Postby uspsmech » 05 Dec 2009 17:28

Thanks to all for the kind words, i can't check the door plate right now, the car is up on the lift with a fiat under it, no roof and it's raining, will check that info as soon as i can thanks again Jim

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 06 Dec 2009 08:09

Wow what a great find! A rare example in pretty good shape, nice original condition too.

Apart from missing the top of the battery box & the air intake hoses (or are those bits with the car?) everything seems to be there that you would expect to find. And the documents with the car must be pretty rare too - I have never seen that Provisional Information booklet before. What information is in it?

When you have time take a look at the wheels - they are the correct style & if they are original the date "77" should be cast on the rim. Not sure why they would be gold but maybe the PO just painted them? Although I believe there is an ACN series car here in the UK with gold wheels - maybe BL experimenting with styling?

Tony
Image
<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

uspsmech
Wedgling
Posts: 22
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 01:53
Location: Rhode Island USA

Postby uspsmech » 06 Dec 2009 15:06

well the rain stopped ,got four inches of snow! got to love new england, it was 60 degrees when i brought the car in on friday. the build date on the door plate says july 1977, does that make it a 77 or a 78? the last registration has it as a 79, also the wheel code is A 76, so maybe they were left over from that run or it took an extra year to put the gold paint on them, lol,feedback is welcomed ,thanks Jim

V8Wedgehead
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Postby V8Wedgehead » 06 Dec 2009 17:44

July 1977 build date still makes it a 1978 coupe. The rims that have a 76 stamping on them is rare. I have only seen 77 not anything earlier. Even the cars built in January/February 1977 all had silver rims. There were no special editions or gold rims for a LHD North American TR8 Prototype. So give them a coat of silver and clean up the body and take it for a spin! [8D]

Michael
1980 TR8 FHCs; Rally Conversion #0020 & Stock #0058
ImageImage
If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 06 Dec 2009 19:03

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by uspsmech</i>

the build date on the door plate says july 1977, does that make it a 77 or a 78? the last registration has it as a 79, also the wheel code is A 76,
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The cars were commonly registered depending on date sold by the dealer. Another example is my yellow TCT was built on Feb. '79 which would make it a 1979 but it was registered as a 1980.

On the other hand my Spider's build date was July 1980 and sold in early spring of 1981, however (possibly because Spiders were only made for for about the middle six months of 1980) it was registered as a 1980.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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uspsmech
Wedgling
Posts: 22
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 01:53
Location: Rhode Island USA

Postby uspsmech » 06 Dec 2009 23:09

thanks to all for the input,could any body tell me who sells the best/most useful workshop manual? also any recommendations on what battery to use in the car for originality sake? i'm planning on keeping the car as stock as possible so i want every thing that goes into it to be right for the car and the era. to f1 spyder i'm envious of your spitfires,back in the day i had a 1964 spitfire 4 and a 1969 spitfire mk III sold them to buy a 1958 AH 100/6. yeah i was young and stupid, they were lots of fun and i wish i had any one of the 3 back! thanks Jim

V8Wedgehead
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Postby V8Wedgehead » 07 Dec 2009 00:53

There really is no original battery. It is tough to find on that fits the coupes battery box and has the right positions for the +/- terminals. I know the original TR8 workshop manual is still available and covers the whole vehicle. You might want to see if Victoria Biritsh, Roadster Factory, Rimmer Brothers or S+S may have the manual.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHCs; Rally Conversion #0020 & Stock #0058
ImageImage
If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"

Cobber
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Postby Cobber » 07 Dec 2009 01:09

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">You can download the factory manual from Jclays home page.</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

mitchelltjohn
Rust Hunter
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Postby mitchelltjohn » 07 Dec 2009 15:33

Beans, you make the comment: "Just make sure you treat the surface rust properly". CAn you give your recommenadtion on treating surface rust...

standard 1981 DHC

Beans
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Postby Beans » 07 Dec 2009 16:58

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mitchelltjohn</i>

Beans ... Can you give your recommenadtion on treating surface rust...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
In this case I'd say a complete bare shell respray, as I did with my DHC.

Probably most people on here will think it's over the top.
But as this car is in pretty solid condition and is a fairly unique example, it deserves a proper treatment.

I know, easy to say for me as I have access to skilled body workers and work shops.
Just bear in mind that a properly coated/rust proofed body shell will be a solid base for many, many years of use/enjoyment of the car [:)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

uspsmech
Wedgling
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Joined: 27 Nov 2009 01:53
Location: Rhode Island USA

Postby uspsmech » 07 Dec 2009 17:41

beans, i agree any job worth doing is worth doing right, plus i'm not really in a big rush to put this one on the road, as it's been said "you can't rush quality" what is your opinion of soda blasting? i've heard some good things about this process, especially the fact that it leaves a rather protective coat on the bare metal for a time buying you some flexability on the painting process, thanks Jim

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Dec 2009 01:07

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by uspsmech</i>

what is your opinion of soda blasting? i've heard some good things about this process, especially the fact that it leaves a rather protective coat on the bare metal for a time buying you some flexability on the painting process, thanks Jim
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It depends on what your start point is, the type paint you want to apply and how much you want to spend. Soda blasting won't remove rust, just paint. You have to touch up rusty portions with dabs of a tougher abrasive being careful to not heat up the metal so it doesn't warp. Of coutse abrasives won't get into nooks and crannies like chemicals can but on the other hand getting rid of the acid or base stripper in these nooks and crannies can be problematic so your damned if you do and damned if you don't. I'm starting with a primarily rust free body with rust showing through paint only on some edges which didn't originally get a lot of paint. As the paint is in goos shape (where PO didn't already prime it I plan to wire brush rust, treat it with metalready and basically follow my nose as I proceed. I plan to paint it myself as I shoestring it. I will be posting pictures shortly.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
Image

uspsmech
Wedgling
Posts: 22
Joined: 27 Nov 2009 01:53
Location: Rhode Island USA

Postby uspsmech » 08 Dec 2009 17:52

Had a chance to go down to the garage today. Got to poking around the trunk to get the size for the battery. The local Advance Auto Parts carries a Autocraft silver battery #42-1 for a 80-82 tr8 application,it measures 7"x9.5", which makes it a little small for the battery box but the post are the right polarity and it has 650 cold cranking amps a 24/72 warranty and cost $82.99 before discount by proper polarity of the post i'm refering to installing the battery with the post near the inner fender and the forward post being positive and the rear most post being negative. Also in the trunk i found the spare,held down by the original strap, the tool kit( jack,handle, lug wrench and a seperate tube type socket that i'm assuming is used for the plugs?) this tool kit is in a blue plastic sleeve,pretty good condition, is this a complete kit? there is also a small rubber strap that goes on two hooks forward of the spare tire is this where the tool kit attaches? the hardboard panel over the spare is in pieces, is this available? or should i piece the old one togeather and use it as a pattern to fabricate a new one? the battery box cover is missing, but i get the feeling you guys knew that already,i take it they are hard to get.Getting back to the spare wheel, previously i had said the wheels were a76 with gold paint,i was only half right, two wheels on drivers side are a76,two wheels on passenger side are j76, the wheel in the trunk is b77, the one in the trunk is in real nice shape and that gold paint appears to be a factory anodized finish either that or somebody went through a lot of trouble to have gold wheels,Also pulled the plugs today,almost forgot how much fun it is to work on a large engine in a small car,plugs came out well, no gaulling on the threads, no cross threading and actually it appeared the last time the car ran they burned nice and clean,i would almost consider putting them back in for the first start,but will probably put in fresh ones any prefrences? took out NGKs maybe buy the same. Put Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders, and i just could not wait ,i had to see if it was frozen,put the strap wrench on, gave a little tug and its free! didn't move it much, want the oil to work on the rings,but at least i know it moves, thanks for the time any advice is welcome, Jim,( yeah i know i'm long winded.lol)

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 08 Dec 2009 18:12

Jim, reference your gold wheels, I may be wrong but I think that here in the UK there is an example of one of the ACN series cars that was retained here for development work, & this has standard alloys with a gold finish fitted from the factory.

I saw the car recently & I am pretty sure that I was told the wheels are factory original - I am sure someone will put me right if I have misunderstood[:)]

So maybe yours are factory original too? Anyone else shed any light on this?

Tony
Image
<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 08 Dec 2009 18:20

The little rubber strap attaches the jack to the trunk. I would make a new wheel cover out of hard board (I think they call it) pretty much the same material. From memory (it's been a while since I checked my tool kit) it's complete. I use NK's. In the back of my mind it seems gold anodized wheels where available but not often seen, I thought they where available on gold decaled Premium but could have shown up on other cars. Or am I dreaming?

Picture below shows possition of jack.

Image





TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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