More power

[UKPhilTR7]

<b>I am looking to try and get more our of the standard 2lt engine. I currently have K and N filters, tubular and an engine tune. I know that BAL needles and an electric fan can also help, also not forgetting the GRP boot lid and bonnet.

Does anyone know of any other methods and what extra bhp I could be looking at? </b>

[Workshop Help]

Yes, paint the words, WARP DRIVE NOS TURBO, in lime green paint on both sides of the fenders. Drive 20mph like you're in a school zone. I reckon that should be good for at least another 125bhp.

Caleb

[Rich in Vancouver]

And don't forget the Tea-Tray rear wing.


But seriously after the mods that you have you get into the internal stuff...hot cam, port/polish head, webers, 16v....big bucks!

1975 TR7 ACL764U

[TR Tony]

You have done the easy mods, Phil, like Rich says you are now looking at the internals like head work, cam etc.

I think our friend Beans has done quite a lot of work to a standard 2L engine in one of his cars, which he has posted about before. From memory I think this was good for about 130bhp.

It's the law of diminishing returns though - more & more work will cost £££ but you will only gain a modest power increase. If you really want a lot more performance you might be better off looking at a Sprint conversion - relatively simple (compared to a V8 conversion) if you can find a decent 16V engine, & offers more scope for tuning in future.

Before you go for more power, have you uprated the brakes & suspension?

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

[Beans]

I did a few things on my 8 valve engine yes.

Main requirement if you want more power is getting more air/fuel mixture in. So you'll have to improve the flow one way or another.

And I was lucky in that I had a very well cast cylinder head to start with. They can be pretty poor in places, thus restricting the flow a bit. As an illustration ...



... the sharp edge between valve seat and head should be smooth.



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

[flynns tr 7]

You could polish and port the valves i know a good webb page i will see if i can find it and re post.

[bottomtop]

There is a mob over here who do superchargers for MGB's who seem to think that their technology is very adaptable. Something in my gut tells me that would be great fun for the first few weeks until the engine explodes.

[calex59]

To bottomtop:
I have a friend who, back in the day, came to own a TR3, it had been wrecked, needing fenders etc. but the engine ran, sort of. I talked to him and said that he needed to put oil in the carbs, he did this and took it out for a run. The engine, which had been beefed up condierably from stock, roared to life and ran like the devil for a while until it blew up on him. The last words he ever spoke to me were, I shouldn't have put the oil in the carbs.\

Point is, a fast running engine is great but can backfire on you if you abuse it.