help

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 07 Apr 2008 19:38

What is the best way to set the points and timing?

I took the tr out of the garage for the first time for about 3 months today

Started first time (has been on a battery conditioner)

Ticked over great reversed out the garage (Bang bang it started to back fire)

Not just a wee bit it was loud bring up the revs slow it is fine to a point ( slight hesitation)

You canâ€™t drive it no power.

I am guessing it is plugs, points, timing etc

Took of the distributor cap to look at the points could hardly see them for the weights

Sitting over them

Question: is there an easy way to set the points and timing

I tried to do static timing with a test lamp

I.E

1. one side on the coil same side that the distributor goes on and putting other side to earth

2. turning on ignition and moving distributor until light comes on

But it did not work (must be doing something wrong)

Help appreciated

I am going to put it in to a guy to get the full engine set up

Timing, Carbs etc

But I have to drive it to him first..

â€œTAâ€

If it's not broke don't fix it.

john 215 · Postby **john 215** » 07 Apr 2008 19:52

Hi Stevie,
You got the set up right, but make sure you turn the dizzy opposite direction to rotation just to light literely comes on. Also make sure the timing marks are correctly aligned [;)] Dynamic with a lamp is better but this will get you in the ball park.
Unlikely the timing went out over 3 months of sitting still, check to make sure no damp anywhere ie around the coil and give electrics a spray of water repelent such as WD40.
Hope this help,
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6 WILL BE ON THE ROAD VERY SOON!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 07 Apr 2008 20:15

The timing marks looked ok 10o btdc

The car has been in the garage all winter but the last time I started it I just let it tick over until up to full temp then switched it off again so a possibility of damp .

Is there an easy way to set the points?

If it's not broke don't fix it.

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 07 Apr 2008 20:37

If it was running alright before it's winter sleep, I don't see why there should be something wrong with the timing.
Better to investigate other possible problem area's like fuel starvation.

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 07 Apr 2008 20:55

I think it is getting good fuel with 20 litres of fresh fuel just put in.

Thatâ€™s why I was thinking plugs, timing

If it's not broke don't fix it.

paul w · Postby **paul w** » 07 Apr 2008 23:11

The easiest way to set points IMHO,is to remove dizzy as it is upside
down - i.e.weights over points.Then again,if your gonna go that far,
you may as well fit electronic ignition and have done with it!
Item number: 200211824820 on Ebay might help with those darned bolts!

See ya. Paul

Hasbeen · Postby **Hasbeen** » 08 Apr 2008 02:01

I'm with Beans on this. Why would the timimg change, while the car
was in storage?
The problem will be something sticking, because its oil is dry, or
damp, from the winter atmosphere.

I'd do the normal ignition checks for moisture, & spark tracking
first, & then things like fuel pump valves, & carby needle & seat
valves for sticking.

This is assuming the backfiring is from the exhaust, & not the
carbys. If its from the inlet, than thats a different question.

Hasbeen

Workshop Help · Postby **Workshop Help** » 08 Apr 2008 13:45

If I may, on the assumption that your 'backfire' is, in fact, an 'afterfire', I perceive an intermittant ignition failure. My first guess is the condensor has internally shorted. Do you have a spare that could be fitted in it's place? Look at the points faces, are they clean and correctly gapped with no visible pitting? Is the rotor clean? Is the distributor cap clean and the posts free of scale? Now, are the spark plug gaps clean? Use a piece of emery cloth to file the gaps back to shiny metal. Are the ignition cables clean at the ends and firmly pushed onto the spark plugs and into the distributor cap?

Please try it now.

If no joy, a quick compression test will determine the valve and piston condition.

If still the problem exists, delve into the carburetion system. Check the metering needle for dried on fuel deposits as this will alter the incoming fuel/air ratio. Hopefully the fuel in the float bowl will not have dried into powder or the bowl will have to be dropped for cleaning along with the float and needle valve.

This is all basic stuff and should be followed in this order when bringing back to life any engine that has been idle for a length of time. Considering the rapid degradation of modern fuels, this length of downtime grows shorter every year.

Mildred Hargis

bmcecosse · Postby **bmcecosse** » 08 Apr 2008 18:31

Check the carb pistons are free and have a little 3 in 1 oil in the dashpots Stevie! I'll be digging my car out next week-end (if dry) - it hasn't run since December.

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 08 Apr 2008 19:04

Thanks for your replies

I will be trying them all out

Like bmcecosse I will hopefully be taking it back out at the weekend

Too much work on to get anywhere near it this the week.

bmcecosse I hope all goes well for your outing of your car at the weekend

And all goes sweet for you .

If it's not broke don't fix it.

Anonymous

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