How do you mean - to make the throw of the gear lever shorter between the individual gears?
I have not ever heard of such an arrangement for a standard LT77 box, although I guess they might exist for the motorsport prepared versions of the LT77, a bit like there are close ratio gear sets for the same box. Pretty rare bits of metal though, even if they do exist!
Tony
<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">
How do you mean - to make the throw of the gear lever shorter between the individual gears?
Tony
<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yeah, just after a shorter throw, my other cars that I regularly drive are a Mk4 Astra Turbo and a '99 Subaru WRX that both have very short shifts, so getting into the TR the shift feels so sloppy, (like driving a truck!)so trying to get something with a similiar feel.
One way you can shorten the throw is to shorten the lever. However, the shorter lever will make the movement a bit stiffer, and I'm not sure if this is the effect you want.
I shortened mine about a half inch. A PO managed to snap off the threaded section so that was another reason. So far it does feel a little different but not hard to shift at all. I have heard of others doing the same. I think with the correct lube in the box, the shifting shouldn't be that much harder.
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by nadg63</i>
[br ... the TR the shift feels so sloppy, (like driving a truck!) ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If the gearchange is sloppy check the bushes between gearbox and gearchange housing.
If they look like this it's time for some poly or nylon bushes ...
<center> <font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>
On mine I just cut off the threaded section and then drilled out an SD1 gear knob to 10mm and shoved it on. No problem, with thin oil of course.
Cheers
Phil
1979 TR7V8 FHC 3.9 Litre
19 years of tinkering and tuning...... So Far!
Better to burn out than fade away.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If the gearchange is sloppy check the bushes between gearbox and gearchange housing.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yep, my gearbox is almost rifle bolt like in action. Very little slop when in a gear. I also shortened the gearlever by an inch or so. Removed the upright from the base by removing the welds, cut to size and reweld.
This is one of my shifter knobs that I made. It is much more ergonomic than the original knob which is little more than a ball. This design also causes the shift lever to be 1/2" shorter than original because the hole is 1/2" deeper.
As Beans said, check the housing bushings. Mine were totally gone and I thought that everything in the transmission was wasted. Replaced the bushings and now everything is firm.
I am thinking about shorting the shift lever itself about 1 1/2".
At the risk of starting an amusing saga of posts, my gearlever height is 17.5cm from the flat bit of the trim panel when in neutral. It is possible to go shorter by 1-2cm if you still want the gaiter to look OK.
First step would be to check those bushings like beans and jclay stated. When I picked up my car the shifting was sloppy, like trying to stir porridge. Lots of waisted motion. I thought it was loose and was going to fall off. When I checked the mounting bolts were tight but the rubber bushings were missing completely. Like many rubber parts on the car they had just deteriorated and had fallen off. I installed poly bushings with stainless steel inserts and it tightened up nice and firm. Once you've done this step then you can determine if you want to go ahead and shorten shifter.
TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
At the risk of ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
mmm ... great minds think alike [:D] ... mine's exactly 17.5 cm too [:p]
<center> <font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> At the risk of starting an amusing saga of posts,
my gearlever height is 17.5cm from the flat bit of the trim panel when in neutral.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Is that with, or without, a knob?
I meen, is it a naked lever rod <u>without</u> the knob, or a complete gear lever <u>with</u> the knob?
This is one of my shifter knobs that I made. It is much more ergonomic than the original knob which is little more than a ball. This design also causes the shift lever to be 1/2" shorter than original because the hole is 1/2" deeper.
