Choke problem?

[calex59]

Ok, so this topic was about dipstick tubes but now I have another question and hate to start another topic, so here goes. My car, 1980 DHC, starts hard in the mornings and idles fast once it warms up. Can't get it to idle slow. It seems to be loading up(flooding out)after it warms up at idle speeds. Runs fine once it is moving but at a stop it idles very fast, about 1200 to 2000, and then if I sit there very long it will gradually slow down and die. Then I have to hold the throttle to the floor to get it to start(Indicates flooding to me). This acts like a sticking choke but at the same time I have to pump the gas when it is cold to get it to start. Any suggestions would be welcome

[saabfast]

I made one from some clear petrol pipe of about the right diameter. Pushed over the spigot at the base of the block OK and fitted the top ferrule, but a bit loose in the top clip. IIRC its 16.25" long but do a search on here to check.
As an alternative Rimmers list for about £10, but still cut to fit.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
'81 TR7 DHC

[mb4tim]

I used fuel line hose.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

[FI Spyder]

Any rubber hose that is petroleum product resistant like fuel line, emission hose, etc. should work. PO had fashioned a tube out of copper but I changed it back to rubber and it was easier to put the dipstick back in. Note: FI dipsticks are different than carb units.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Graham Robertson]

I remember reading somewhere that you can use the shorter dip stick from a Dolomite Sprint engine (which fits straight into the block - no need for the hose). Can anyone verify this?


Graham
1977 TR7 FHC Flamenco Red

[Workshop Help]

Yes, one can. The only catch is the metal tube must be trimmed so the dipstick will have the correct reading. This is done by draining & refilling the oil in the sump.

The good thing about having the rubber tube with long dipstick is the ease of access. The short, all metal dipstick is low under air cleaner box & can be difficult to reach. And, in low light conditions, replacing the dipstick is a hit and miss affair. We keep a flashlight in the glovebox for just this purpose.

We prefer the short dipstick as it aids in a faster removal of the air box for carburetor service.

Mildred Hargis

[calex59]

Alright, thanks for the help on the dipstick, what I would like to know is the oil capacity, in quarts, for the 2.0 liter engine. I read it as 5.5 quarts with filter and 5 without. Is this correct? and if I switch to spin on filter does this change the capacity to 6 quarts with filter? I know, I should just use the manual but the one I have gives everything in liters

[Hasbeen]

Calex59, according to my Leyland manual, the capacity of the sump is
7 pints [4.0 litre], or with filter 8 pints [4.5 litre]. I would not
like to see 5,5 quarts, [11 pints] in there. You would definitely
blow some seals, even if you didn't hydraulic the thing to a stop.

As in my climate I never have a need for hot air, to prevent carby
icing, the first thing I do with a new 7 is get rid of that huge air
filter box, replacing it with small sports cleaners. This means the
second thing is the long dip stick, as there is nowhere to support
the long tube.
As I then require richer needles, in the SUs, I must be getting more
air, & therefore power.

Then with the air injection systen gone, to the same place as the
charcoal canister, & that redicules exhaust rebreathing valve, the
engine bay starts to look a bit less cluttered, & the weight saved
must knock seconds off my acceleration times, [well, I can live in
hope, can't I]?

Hasbeen

[calex59]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

Calex59, according to my Leyland manual, the capacity of the sump is
7 pints [4.0 litre], or with filter 8 pints [4.5 litre]. I would not
like to see 5,5 quarts, [11 pints] in there. You would definitely
blow some seals, even if you didn't hydraulic the thing to a stop. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Ok, then 4 quarts with filter 3.5 without. Sounds better to me too. 5 plus seemed excessive but I was never one to convert liters to quarts and galleons. Sigh, guess I am stuck in a miles, quarts and inches world[:)]

[calex59]

Thanks guys, got a new dipstick tube made(a lot cheaper than you can buy one for), just a little too short but made a note of where the oil hits when full and I should be ok. I will make another one soon and make sure I cut it the exact length.

[esl1885]

According to my Robert Bentley manual and the the owners manual that came with the car, oil capacity for a US car is 9.5 pints (4 3/4 qts) for oil and filter change.
4.5 liter = 4.755 096 942 449 quart [US, liquid]

Sam

[Hasbeen]

Well, there's fools, & there's old fools. Calex59 you'd best be
carefull who you trust.

I have known for years that your gallon is smaller than ours. Isn't
it stupid that I did not relate that to meaning that your pint must
be smaller than ours.

Just as well we had Sam to show us the error of my ways, or we might
have damaged your engine.

Hasbeen

[calex59]

Ok, almost 5 quarts for oil and filter change. I always check the oil after a few quarts go in anyway, I would never have over filled it, or under filled it either. It is just nice knowing exactly how much to pour into the engine and it is confusing when the car is made in another country. US pints being different than other pints and dry and liquid pints being different also[:)] Thanks again for all the help.

[UKPhilTR7]

<b><font color="blue">One thing that I remember when I put the new tube on my car was that a little of washing up liquid on the outside base of the metal tube going into the engine, ensured that the new tube slided on nice and easy. With the angle and the lasck of space, this I found helped a great deal.</font id="blue"></b>

[calex59]

Ok, one more question. I hate to start a new thread so I will ask it here. Is is safe to jack the TR7 by its front axel or whatever it is called? I need to change the oil and, being a aircooled VW owner, am reluctant to just start jacking on it. It looks kind of frail and delicate under there. Any help will be appreciated.