Heater Overhaul

[busheytrader]

Guys,

I'll be tackling the heater soon as it's been bypassed for far too long. I've got the Haynes manual and read a few reviews on what a pig it was to do. I did my own V8 conversion years ago (engine & gearbox out through the top) replaced the tank and upgraded all the brakes and suspension. But apart from changing the speedo and rev counter I've never taken the dashboard apart.

How easy was it for those of us not stripping the entire car down at the time? Did the steering wheel have to come off? Mine's a drophead so there's more room with the roof down. I'm not not looking for the full procedure, just if you'd prefer it to replacing the fuel tank again?

Cheers,


Adam

[Henk]

My heater leaks also (to within) I must repair thus, I will remove the wheel (is a simple job en there is more room then) and then the whole dashboard, radioconsole and armrest from it. If the heater is removed I will paint him and put in new foam . It seems not such a difficult job only more boring. Think it takes a weekend excl. painting.


Henk

1980 TR7 US Convertible
1978 Mini Clubman Estate

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

[url="http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/index.php/FISpyder"]FI Spyder's weblog:

Took out heater and dismantled, flushed old dry petroleum grease off and applied white lithium grease. Levers operate nice and free now. I used thin high density foam for the doors and some Selectric typewriter foam for edging around vents. For the fire wall seal I used a double thickness of Selectric base foam with a tough vinyl for the side facing the engine and glued it with 3M 77. For the insulation around the AC drain I used double layer of pipe insulation with same vinyl on the exposed down side. POR-15 on the water hoses and put it back in. Click to go to BLOG![/url]

<font color="red">===========================================================</font id="red">

[url="http://www.geocities.com/drcunlimited/TR7Restoration/TR7Conversion018.htm"]schigara Website:

3/08/2005

This car did not come with A/C so I am using the heater/ac box and wiring harness from an 80 parts car.
Today I drilled out all the rivets and disassembled the HVAC box, stripped all the paint and rust and put new
insulation on all the the flaps and am putting on new paint. The blower motor works fine so I just took it apart,
cleaned it and repainted it. Click for photos![/url]

[FI Spyder]

I didn't remove steering wheel but I dropped it down from the dash. When you take a panel off put the screws that were removed in a baggie and tape it to the panel. If screws are not the same size make note of were odd sized ones go. Makes for easier reassembly. While the dash was apart I took the opportunity to clean all electrical connections including bulb contacts and checked integrity of bulbs. Removed instrument panel to clean all connections on it as well. My temp gauge wasn't working and I wanted to make sure all bases were covered. (turned out to be temp sender.) Make note of sequence of removal to reverse properly. The rest is as indicated above. I like to fit a panel them tighten screws, helps centering and fit. To do it all properly is a little time consuming but you shouldn't have to do it again once it's done.

Henk, the only thing I've ever accomplished in a weekend is get drunk. Everything else takes longer.[8D]

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[busheytrader]

Thanks for the info.

I've got some vacation due in the next couple weeks. I've reserved some of it for fitting an uprated brake servo / master cylinder to the 7V8 so will tackle the heater box then. Looks like I'll be replacing many fiddly strips of rotting foam. Hopefully Robsport will hold all the bits for a midweek visit.

I work in Copenhagen during the week and fly back home to London for the weekends so time is scarce.

Fiddly maintenance jobs on the 7 are always worse than on other cars since its compact and low, which I'm not at 6'2". eg pedal box and replacing throttle cable. Head in footwell, bum on seat and legs in air. Nose scraped under the floor pan even with the axle stands set at max to change or check the oil levels.

At least I've been out for a blat most weekends this winter, albeit wrapped up like an eskimo.

Cheers,

adam

[Hasbeen]

Once apon a time, I had a 7, who's dash used to squeak, & rattle at
me every time I went over a bump. I used to insert strips of foam
rubber everywhere, to try to stop it. The stuff soon lost its
resilience, & the squeaks returned.

Then a mate at a boat factory showed me some neoprene foam strips,
with a self adhesive side. It comes in a wide range of sizes, & is
now readily available at rubber shops.

When I had my 7s dash out, some years ago, I used this stuff every
where, & I have the quietest 7 in the business. If you are going to
have yours appart, try to find some of this stuff, unless you like
rattles, & squeaks, that is.

I will do the 8, when/if I have the dash out. One big advantage of
the 8 is, that with the roof down, the big motor rumbling through
the big exhaust, & the radio playing, you can't hear too many of the
rattles, anyway.

Hasbeen

[john 215]

Hi Adam,
Dash removal looks worse than it is,i removed my column when i have done this in the past. Couple of 'shear bolts' hold it in place,use a dremmel type grinder to cut a slot in them to wind out with a screwdriver.All the wiring that needs to be disconnected is under the false speaker grille in the top of the dash and will only reconnect one way.10mm headed bolts under here as well and in each lower corner,plus pozidrive screws here and there and around radio console.Dont forget the speedo cable [B)] Fitting the servo will be easy with dash out,pin and 4 nuts,worth getting a new bulk head to servo gasket while up at Rob Sports
Two studs go through the bulk head to secure the heater box,then you will need to disammble the box by drilling out the pop rivets,handy to have a digital camera handy for linkages and flap postions if your memory is anything like mine!!
Dont forget to get new seals for the pipes that just push into the matrix [:0] Check these pipes as they have a habit of corroding.
Good Luck,if you do get stuck someone on here will know the answer for sure.
Cheers John.

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC Soon to be a 4.6 fire breather!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

[Rich in Vancouver]

Good info. When I turned on my heater this past fall I got a shower of grotty bits of foam. This has stopped now and the heater is working well so it will wait until I install the new wiring harness. Nothing like making a big job even more complicated![:(]
Thanks for the concise instructions John.
Spyder, do you get the selectric foam from a local source?

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver</i>

Spyder, do you get the selectric foam from a local source?

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

As a former IBM tech I had a box of sound package foam sitting around forever. Best bet now is to visit a auto upholstery shop. For the thin high density foam on the flap plates I found some sheets at Michaels (an arts and crafts chain store).

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Rich in Vancouver]

Spyder...I know what you mean about the career change. A good friend of mine had a good trade-Teletype Repairman...until the FAX machine appeared[:0]. He's now a fireman.
I have used the foam from Michaels for other projects. That's a good idea.

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>

Thanks for the info.

Fiddly maintenance jobs on the 7 are always worse than on other cars since its compact and low, which I'm not at 6'2". eg pedal box and replacing throttle cable. Head in footwell, bum on seat and legs in air. Nose scraped under the floor pan even with the axle stands set at max to change or check the oil levels.

Cheers,

adam
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I know what you mean, (although I'm not that tall.) The seats come out with 4 bolts each and that makes working on and under the dash easier. I also had the carpet removed as I was tidying up the interior, cleaning contacts, especially main light switch and of course heater. (see picture on my blog of dash out, heater in.) But my situation was, the car was not registered yet and it was a winter project although other than taking out the dash cleaning the light switches it turned into a spring project. I'm the kind of guy that likes to do a thorough job so I don't have to go back and do it again because I skipped something to get it done sooner. Helps if it's not your daily driver and you group the jobs for doing over the winter (in a garage of course.)

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[busheytrader]

Thanks for the advice Guys.

I'll post a note when the jobs are sorted.

Cheers,

Adam