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Front suspension upgrade

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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1980dhc
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Front suspension upgrade

Postby 1980dhc » 21 Jan 2008 03:32

Has anyone ever installed a Mustang II front suspension in a TR7. I know its very common on hotrods and there are serveral kits available here in the states. Also it would give better options on brakes and wheels. Then an axle swap on the rear to a Ford axle and you could have better brake and wheel options there also. I would guess it would lead to better handling of the car also.

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 21 Jan 2008 14:49

1980dhc,

Yes, the Mustang II front end has been swapped on many different cars here in the US. The TR7 front suspension is good, especially if you do the following upgrades which will be much cheaper that the fabrication you will have to do to fit the Mustang II assembly.

New tie-rod ends, ball joints, all poly bushings & anti-dive kit available from John's Cars. http://www.johnscars.com/tr7/tr7new.html

Roller bearing kit from Ted. (He is bringing out a strut tower kit for the TR7 which includes new springs.) http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

Gas cartages available from many suppliers including John's Cars.

The Wedge Shop has front brake upgrade kits and will make you a modified Ford rear-end that will drop right in to the TR7. Don't forget his custom proportional block when you upgrade the front brakes. http://www.thewedgeshop.com/triumphhomepage.htm

Some people here have built adjustable coil over front struts. If you go that route, you can use the bottom half of the strut housing from either an SD1 or Land Rover (can't remember which) that has a bigger spindle and hub assembly that gives you a 5-bolt pattern.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

1980dhc
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Postby 1980dhc » 21 Jan 2008 15:53

Jclay,

The idea of upgrading for less money is always cool with me. When you do the upgrades you mention for the front what are the wheel options available. Basically is there and upgrade of the brakes that will allow me to change my bolt pattern to a much more common pattern so I will have more options available when it comes to picking a wheel style for my car. If not I am fine with one of the 15 inch wheels for the current bolt pattern, my main goal is to get the car to a point where if I push the brake pedal on Monday its not Thursday before the car stops moving.

Holt

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 21 Jan 2008 19:15

Don't forget the option you have of having the bolt pattern drilled into a set of blank wheels. A club member has ordered a set like that for his TR7 and he said it was cost effective. I can't recall the details but I think the wheels are made in New Zealand, imported into the States, drilled by a company in Phoenix to your specifications and then imported into Canada. It would be even cheaper for you being in the US. That is of course if you like one of the styles they make.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 21 Jan 2008 21:27

These ought to stop it! The Wedge Shop.

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 22 Jan 2008 17:19

They are abit ... euhm ... smallish [:D]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

fiveliters
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Postby fiveliters » 24 Jan 2008 20:26

F1-I had a set of wheels made for my Mustang in that manner. I'd almost assume (in the States,anyway) if you go to a wheel shop and prepay for a set of wheels,that they can order them as blanks and drill them out to your specs. It would be worth it,cost wise,when you consider the cost of changing axles/hubs or using adapters,which I have on my FHC.

mb4tim
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Postby mb4tim » 25 Jan 2008 18:44

5.0- as much as I love the Acura rims, the adapters scare me. The wheel only riding on the studs, and not having a hub to rest on just scares me. Should it, I dunno, but it does.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com
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grndsm
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Postby grndsm » 25 Jan 2008 19:13

Tim,

I have used "lug centric" rims (as in no contact with the center of the hub) on my race car and did some pretty crazy things with it (drag racing in low 10's, autoXing and oval track racing). Perhaps I shouldn’t have, in such extreme application but did…
But it is more than just the lugs/studs holding the wheel on the hub. Studs alone would not be strong enough to do the job! What you have there is the friction force between the back of the wheel and the front of the hub. It is that friction force that keeps the shear stressed away from the wheel studs!

But if you are still not convinced, you can always pay more and get hub-centric adaptors!


Leon
'94 Eagle Talon AWD Turbo 613whp <powered by Mitsu 4G63T
'80 TR7 Spyder GS-T <undergoing Mitsu 4G63T transplant :)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2472999

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