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Fitting Strut Roller Bearing Conversion Kits

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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UKPhilTR7
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Fitting Strut Roller Bearing Conversion Kits

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 04 Dec 2007 08:58

<b><font color="green"><font face="Verdana">Guys,
I am looking at buying and also fitting a Front Strut Roller Bearing Conversion for my girl as I have heard that they are really good and that they are a lot cheaper then going for power steering. For the people who have brought and fitted these are they worth the time and effort and do they make a real difference?
Also I have heard that they are easy enough to fit. Is this the case and can anyone give me a step by step guide on how to do this. Remembering that I am a starter in this car mechanic game and that I am still proud of the fact that I have successfully changed over my petrol pump lol.
Cheers, Phil </b></font id="green"></font id="Verdana">

fastman
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Postby fastman » 04 Dec 2007 12:12

The roller bearing set-up does help at lower speeds like parking. If you are considering the modification, it would be a perfect time for a suspension upgrade/refurbishing as all of the relatively hard to access parts are now revealed. (shocks/springs/rubber gaitors). As for a step by step, there's most likely a previous post on the topic as well as grabbing a copy of the manual which makes excellent bedtime reading. I also have a CD ROM of the original technical publications for the TR7&8 which is excellent as well. Enjoy the learning curve.

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 04 Dec 2007 13:42

Hi Phil,

Had this done to my DHC recently but sorry can't give you a step by step guide 'cos I bottled out & got my local garage to remove the front struts & do the conversion for me!

However, yes it does make a difference, albeit a small one IMHO. Secondly, ideal time to overhaul the rest of the front suspension as Fastman says, as you have it all off the car. I had new springs, shocks & gaiters fitted at the same time.

Tony
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<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 04 Dec 2007 14:04

<b><font face="Verdana"><font color="green">Hi guys,
Thanks for the advise, I think I will go for them as just over £20 for the both of them compared to just under £1,000 for the PAS sounds much better and I have more chance of the wife giving me an advance on my pocket money for the £20 lol.
To tell you the truth I have just put a new subframe, steering rack and springs on, so got that job out of the way. The only problem is when the front end was off I forgot to do the roller bearings. Well you live and learn…..[:D][:D]</b></font id="Verdana"></font id="green">

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 04 Dec 2007 16:22

Click on my site icon above, I have step by step photos on the "Triumph TR7" page.

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Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

john
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Postby john » 04 Dec 2007 17:10

Ok it does make a diference but it's not WOW very minor maybe comparred to a newly greased and installed original set up

It is very easy to do, and if you search on this forum you will find how its done but in principle you need a set of spring compressors about £19.99 from Halfords. the sierra strut top bits can be got from any FORD dealer for £10

you basically replace the three washers shown in Jclay picture with the one sierra bearing rebated side down so it centralises the shock, contrary to some this does not effect the ride hieght or requires any machining of the cone top

i fitted both in two hours and i'm a chippy by trade, i was unsure at the mid stage of the first installation so i called S+S who ran through the procedure with me.

so in a nutshell i literally jacket the front of the car up jamed the washer at the top of the strut using a piece of angle wedged against one of the three nuts holding the leg in place and undone the locking nut

i then compressed the spring then forced the leg down admittidly removing the steering arm does make this easier, but eneogh to wiggle the mounting top out,

cleaned the whole thing up bit of paint here and there where needed. replaced the three washers with the one in the spring pan wiggled the mounting top back in an tightened everything back up.

easier when your doing it to explain but thats how i did it.

Now i know that there is an alternative to this set up one that i believe Jclay shows and one that can be brought from the US but this is the basic ford sierra top conversion

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry :-(
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Postby Beans » 04 Dec 2007 21:13

There's been some debate on this one, worth using the search option on this forum [;)]
Most important gain is that turn in is smoother ...


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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
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Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
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Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 08 Dec 2007 11:05

"It is very easy to do, and if you search on this forum you will find how its done but in principle you need a set of spring compressors about £19.99 from Halfords. the sierra strut top bits can be got from any FORD dealer for £10"

Does anyone have the Ford part#? Does anyone know if these can be bought from a Ford dealer in the US?

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 08 Dec 2007 11:45

Hi,
I installed the same kit as jclay, available over here via Rimmer Bros not listed on web site but in catalogue, easy fit with reasonably easy instructions on what to keep and what to throw away. I think looking at the Ford conversion this would add to the ride hight slightly [?] not sure maybe someone having fitted this could comment.
Cheers John.

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Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 08 Dec 2007 13:31

I have the needle brg kit from TSI but never got around to installing it. I had some concerns about dirt and grit getting into it since it isn't sealed. The Ford setup looks to be a sealed unit. That's why I was interested.

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Postby john » 09 Dec 2007 08:51

One of these is the right ford part no [:D]

FORD part no is

6150276

85BB/3K099 AA

Bearing Strut
CO3687 H6 (WP)

if thats any help


[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry :-(
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John

Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 09 Dec 2007 13:59

Thanks John. I'll run that by my Ford guy & see what he says.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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