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How do you remove gas tank?

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73super
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How do you remove gas tank?

Postby 73super » 28 Sep 2007 18:44

I need to remove my fuel tank.. how?[:(!]

Butch
78 Spitfire
77 TR7 coupe

73super
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Postby 73super » 28 Sep 2007 18:59

Never mind.. I just found my repair manual.. Well forget that noise. What a pain in the keester.[V]

Butch
78 Spitfire
77 TR7 coupe

grndsm
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Postby grndsm » 28 Sep 2007 19:08

Butch, search around this site, there were several members who have done it while removing a lot fewer parts than the manual calls for!

Actually, if it wasn’t for the overly complicated procedure in the manual, I probably wouldn’t have gotten such a great deal on my car! The PO, purchased a replacement gas tank. Then, he looked at the manual and decided that he didn’t want to do it. After ~8-10 years of sitting in his garage, he finally sold to me!

My point, do not let the manual scare you off!


Leon
'94 Eagle Talon AWD Turbo 613whp <powered by Mitsu 4G63T
'80 TR7 Spyder GS-T <undergoing Mitsu 4G63T transplant :)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2472999

Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 28 Sep 2007 20:30

There is one REALLY important trick when changing the tank.

The bolts holding the tank in are a double ended affair with a nut cast in the middle. The trick is to put a lock nut on the clean exposed end in the car cabin and Boot (trunk) so that the nut at the other dirty end under the cars pins off the shaft instead of spinning the shaft (the road dirt blocks the threads). When the shaft spins the tank strap just twists and nothing more happpens because it can not twist off.

There are two bolts visible in the boot (trunk) on the wall under your rear window. The other two are visible behind thes eats under that big vinyl covered board.

Lots more to read in the archives. I really recommmend you look this one up.

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 29 Sep 2007 21:37

I followed the manual (but found I had to remove BOTH rear dampers) - had no trouble with spinning studs - only removed the front two nuts and pushed the straps out the way. If doing it again I would take the rear axle off completely - it would be so much easier to handle the new tank into place. I think the manual was written for the smaller 8" rear brakes - later cars with larger 9" rear brakes and the space to squeeze the tank through is very tight. I did the whole job in one day. Cheapest tanks by the way are from TD Fitchett - they have the press tools and supply everyone else, who then mark them up !

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73super
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Postby 73super » 02 Oct 2007 17:25

OK, other than removing the gas tank.. is there another option to do a good flush of the fuel tank and system. I'm not getting any fuel flow through the lines.. I've got a feeling, since this hasn't been drivin' in over 8 years that it's corrosion. Maybe blow some air up the lines just to get things flowing?

Butch
78 Spitfire
77 TR7 coupe

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 05 Oct 2007 21:52

Just take the sender unit out the tank - it includes the fuel pick-up pipe. Obviously need to check the tank is almost empty first!

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John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 06 Oct 2007 07:53

I syphoned the remaining contents of the petrol tank out through the sender orifice just last week. What came out of there was not fuel though I can't tell you what it was.

Despite extensive flushing with clean fuel I still have a problem which appears to be caused by sediment. I may attempt another syphon and flush before taking the final step of taking the tank out.

It is possible to have a look inside the tank with the use of a mirror (though the sender orifice is just under 2 inches) and LED torch. I figured there was less chance of a spark with an LED. I couldn't see any evidence of corrosion in my tank but I'm still getting this rust coloured dust through which eventually gets through the in-line fuel filter and causes misfire. I would have thought if the tank was that rusty to be falling apart inside it would be leaking by now. It looks solid both inside and out.

So 73super if you need any advice on how to syphon your tank through the sender orifice let me know. Disconnect the battery first before removing the three wires to the sender.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 06 Oct 2007 10:56

John, I've been through this twice with my 7s.

It is only the front 2 inches, of the bottom of the tank, that rusts.
If you look in to the tank it looks perfect, as the rest will still
be covered with a grey paint/coating, of some kind.
You can get the silt out to the stage that a cheep, inline, filter
will last a thousand Km, or more, before getting restricted.

To do so, jack one back corner up at least a 6" higher than the
other side, & 12" higher than the front & flush, sucking with a
siphon hose, from the low front corner. I used the same 16 liters of
petrol, 3 times, straining it between uses.

I got 2 egg cups of dirt, & half a liter of dirty, greasy water. I
think the water had absorbed my upper cylinder lubricant. The tank
was then useable, & lasted about 3 months, before a pin hole rusted
through from the inside.

A large self tapping screw in the hole, held that leak for the month
or so it took for the second, & then third rust hole to appear. At
that stage I decided to do the job properly.

When I removed the tank, & cut it open, I found the narrow strip of
rust, along the front, of the bottom, about 2.5 inches wide. The
rest of the tank was as new. I gas welded a strip in, to replace the
rusty bit, & gave the tank a POR 15 tank treatment. That was over
4 years ago, & I have had no further trouble.

With the things you Brits can do with rusty cars, it would be a snap
for you.

Have fun, Hasbeen

John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 07 Oct 2007 07:34

Much appreciated Hasbeen. I did run my finger down the front there where I presumed any rust would be and it felt smooth. Looks like I'll be repeating the process but currently I'm thinking about sticking in a second in-line fuel filter. Whatever I do I'm probably wasting my time and should just take the tank out.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 07 Oct 2007 11:38

You had better fit the second filter in parallel with the first,John.

If you fit them in series, once the first one is blocked, there
won't be any petrol getting to the second one to filter.

I found that if you remove the hose on the supply side, of those
in-line filters, & hold them vertical, the petrol draining out,
takes enough silt with it, to give another 100 Km or so of motoring.
Enough to get you home.

Even though I fixed the problem over 4 years ago, I still carry a
spare filter, & the screw driver to fit it, in the car. Its the only
spare I carry, & yes, I do find my irrational behavior, amusing.

I can't see any reason for rushing into such a boring job as
removing the tank. I think you are entitled to procrastinate for a
month or two on this one.

Hasbeen

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 07 Oct 2007 17:08

I put a Filter King filter in my old MG. It has a huge filter area that is more resistant to clogging. It also has a glass bowl which makes it east to see the condition of the filter.


Richard

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 08 Oct 2007 08:03

I've put a 'Sytec' fuel filter in mine which also has a glass bowl. Trouble is, the sediment seems to be getting through it too easily so I may try a cheapy before proceeding further. Although I have to say I started the car a couple of times yesterday and didn't get any evident sediment up into the filter. That's rather unusual of late.

Then an exhaust manifold gasket needed attention and you've guessed it, the screw thread had gone. I then walked away to fight another day.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

stever_sl
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Postby stever_sl » 06 Apr 2008 13:29

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

I followed the manual (but found I had to remove BOTH rear dampers) - had no trouble with spinning studs - only removed the front two nuts and pushed the straps out the way. If doing it again I would take the rear axle off completely - it would be so much easier to handle the new tank into place. I think the manual was written for the smaller 8" rear brakes - later cars with larger 9" rear brakes and the space to squeeze the tank through is very tight. I did the whole job in one day. Cheapest tanks by the way are from TD Fitchett - they have the press tools and supply everyone else, who then mark them up !
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sorry to spin up this old thread again, but I'm curious about the "TD Fitchett" note -- I haven't heard of them (him?) and can't find any references. Since my gas tank has been sitting for umpteen years I may need to find a replacement, so what's the Fitchett story? Also, the parts books say that there are 2 different tanks based on build sequence, with the ones carried by the major suppliers all falling on the wrong side of the divide for my car. Does anyone happen to know what the differences are, and whether they're actually interchangeable?

- Steve Richardson
St Louis MO
76 TR7 (original owner)

saabfast
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Postby saabfast » 06 Apr 2008 13:47

T D Fitchett are a UK (Telford) manufacturer and supplier of Triumph parts. I have never seen a website for them and Google does not come up with one. The tel no is +44 (0)1952619585.
I thought the difference was between FI and carb system tanks, to allow for the pressurised fuel and return system of the FI system.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
'81 TR7 DHC
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