How do i tighten this up ?

[tr7dan]

Ok, so I have now refitted the engine and it went in quite well with everything lining up ok.....





I connected the battery and the electrics are mostly ok with just a couple of small issues that I will deal with later. I even managed to not lose any wiring harness smoke - it must still all be in there somewhere !

For the moment I am anxious to get the car back on its wheels so I have turned my attention to assembling the front suspension but have hit a snag - I can't tighten up the ball joint where the bottom link connects to the stub axle assembly.

Originally it would have had a castellated nut and split pin but the replacements I have, are supplied with a nyloc nut instead. When I try to tighten the joint I'm finding that once the nyloc part of the nut reaches the thread, the whole ball joint rotates and with nothing to hold on to I can't tighten it up ? I had in mind that the tapered part of the ball joint would stick tight in the tapered hole on the stub axle thus holding the thread still.... but it doesn't. Anybody know what gives ?





thanks

Dan

[alc59]

Try putting a jack under the ball joint and use it to preload the taper to stop the pin turning.

Good luck
Al

[tr7dan]

Try putting a jack under the ball joint and use it to preload the taper to stop the pin turning.

Good luck
Al

Thanks Al - worked perfectly

[Cobber]

I even managed to not lose any wiring harness smoke - it must still all be in there somewhere !

The wiring smoke won't come out until you try to drive it somewhere, even then it won't manifest itself until its either dark and/or raining and will happen at the furthermost point from home as well as being dependent on the amount of urgency required to get to your destination.
Only then do you get to enjoy Lucas's greatest inventions:
The self dimming headlights, the intermittent wipers and of course the ignition immobiliser!
As well as the brake lights (already broken for your convenience), the alternator (randomly alternates between working and not working) and the ground wire (any wire that falls off and ends up on the ground, usually with various other components to keep it company)


BTW that engine bay is way too nice and tidy, your asking for oil leaks!

[tr7dan]

The wiring smoke won't come out until you try to drive it somewhere, even then it won't manifest itself until its either dark and/or raining and will happen at the furthermost point from home as well as being dependent on the amount of urgency required to get to your destination.
Only then do you get to enjoy Lucas's greatest inventions:
The self dimming headlights, the intermittent wipers and of course the ignition immobiliser!
As well as the brake lights (already broken for your convenience), the alternator (randomly alternates between working and not working) and the ground wire (any wire that falls off and ends up on the ground, usually with various other components to keep it company)

Ha, well at least that would make it original

Might be a while yet before I get to drive it though as I'm still saving up for a gallon of petrol.....

[FI Spyder]

While you have it apart clean every connection, (both ends) with electronics cleaner and put a thin film of grease on each connection before connecting. I did and never had any wiring problem in the last 14 years other than the time I broke the 12V connection at on place going up the column by taking out and putting in the radio one too many times. Fairly easy to trace as I had no dash lights but that was my fault. The dielectric grease prevents them from re-corroding. To clean the little circle connections I used a really tiny circular brush (don't spread them) or a pipe cleaner which gives you less friction but some is better than none.

[tr7dan]

While you have it apart clean every connection, (both ends) with electronics cleaner and put a thin film of grease on each connection before connecting. I did and never had any wiring problem in the last 14 years other than the time I broke the 12V connection at on place going up the column by taking out and putting in the radio one too many times. Fairly easy to trace as I had no dash lights but that was my fault. The dielectric grease prevents them from re-corroding. To clean the little circle connections I used a really tiny circular brush (don't spread them) or a pipe cleaner which gives you less friction but some is better than none.

Thanks for that - yep, I've cleaned, greased and checked all electrical connections as I've assembled everything. Just three issues to resolve, one rear light out (could be bulb or connection), wipers don't stop, which I think is an adjustment to the park switch, and both headlights pop up but only one goes down. I've not started to investigate yet as I've turned my attention to getting it back on its wheels first.

Could I also ask, as I know this is something you've commented on in the past, have I got the spacer washers UKC1146 in the right place on the brake caliper ? The parts book shows these as quantity (4), so that would be two to each caliper I guess, but doesn't give a clear picture of where they fit. I can't see any other logical place for them other than where I've put them.....



cheers

Dan

[busheytrader]

Loving the finish of the wedge and it’s environment - a central heating radiator in the garage…

One man’s washer is another’s spacer. As a spacer I’d say it’s in the right place, as a washer I’d place it on the other side of the calliper. As you say, the parts book isn’t clear, but as long as the brake disc ends up centralised in the calliper afterwards………

[Beans]

I can't remember a spacer with the original front brake set up.
And the parts manual calls it a packing washer and shows it on the other side of the caliper.
If in doubt fit the hub/disc assembly and check that the disc is centered inside the caliper.

[FI Spyder]

It's been a while but as you assemble them, one of the locations has a washer as a spacer, which will be evident as it will be little further away so needs a spacer. As for headlight motion, make sure the four wire connections (on each side) in the engine bay that go through the front to the motors are clean. They are exposed the environment and tend to get dirty/corroded.

[dursleyman]

Pretty sure the "spacer" washer will go on the bottom bolt because the standard caliper mounting lug is a bit thinner than other calipers. It should be evident if you test by tightening the bolt at the other end of the steering arm and the caliper will then be too thin for the gap where it fits. The spacer will go between the caliper lug and the steering arm.
It depends on the caliper mounting thickness, my Princess calipers don't need a spacer at all.

[tr7dan]

Pretty sure the "spacer" washer will go on the bottom bolt because the standard caliper mounting lug is a bit thinner than other calipers. It should be evident if you test by tightening the bolt at the other end of the steering arm and the caliper will then be too thin for the gap where it fits. The spacer will go between the caliper lug and the steering arm.
It depends on the caliper mounting thickness, my Princess calipers don't need a spacer at all.

Yep, you're right, after a test fit with the disc it's obvious that the washer goes on the bottom bolt at the back of the caliper lug between the steering arm and the lug and not where I originally tried it. What threw me again is the parts book listing quantity 4 when I think it should read 2 ? Can't see any reason why the top bolt would have a 'spacer/washer' under the bolt head.

[dursleyman]

tr7dan
Just looking at your picture again asking where the spacer washer goes, and realised you show it the wrong side of the caliper.
It should go on After the caliper so the caliper is square on the strut and the washer acts as a spacer to the steering arm.
Hope that makes sense?

[tr7dan]

tr7dan
Just looking at your picture again asking where the spacer washer goes, and realised you show it the wrong side of the caliper.
It should go on After the caliper so the caliper is square on the strut and the washer acts as a spacer to the steering arm.
Hope that makes sense?

Cheers Russ, yep - I got it all worked out in the end so everything fitted right.

The car is on the road now and I'm just fiddling about getting the engine running smoothly. I just spent ages messing around with the carbs as I was certain the poor running was down to a fueling issue but after a lot of head scratching I finally traced it to a broken condenser wire on the points.

[dursleyman]

Isn't there an old saying something like "most carburettor problems are ignition related" ?