Headlamp Pod Lower Lift Eye Bush ZKC1143

[busheytrader]

Would anyone have an old or unusable headlamp assembly knocking around with one of these intact?

ZKC1143. The one on my right headlight pod has either broken up or has worn enough for the pod to shake slightly at speed. I don’t drive the wedge that often at night but it’s the r/h one that’s affected so it’s in the driver’s line of sight. From underneath I can see there’s an amount of play in the bush.

I Don’t think there’s a better online resource than Rimmers diagrams for identifying the wedge’s parts. Straight out of the parts book, but without all the oily fingerprints that mine’s accumulated over the years.



Thanks,

Adam

[FI Spyder]

Don't overlook headlight lift adjustments. It's in the OEM manual. I had a flicking left headlight when raised for use. Basically the mechanism raises the headlight into an upper stop to keep it steady when going over roads. Can't remember the sequence of adjustments off hand, it's been a while.

[dursleyman]

ZKC1143 is a bronze bush, probably wears because they have not been lubricated.
There must be some usable ones about in all the spare headlamp pods most of us have collected!!

[busheytrader]

From underneath I don’t see an upper stop for the headlight pod.

[Beans]

Upper stop is the black lip clearly visible on the left hand assembly

[busheytrader]

Thanks Beans. The headlight pods are probably one of the few parts I haven’t removed or taken apart over the years.

Is there a rubber buffer on the stop or just metal to metal contact?

If I adjust the turnbuckle, don’t I risk having a non level headlight pod in the front panel when the lights are down? They look fine at the moment.

[darrellw]

Is there a rubber buffer on the stop or just metal to metal contact?

There is a buffer on the alloy arm where it contacts the stop. It seems more like plastic to me than rubber, but that could just be age.

[Rich K]

Hi, try James Paddock for a good used ZKC1143 bush. I recently sourced a used replacement link assembly (RTC1992) from them as one of mine had seized solid and I managed to destroy the rubber insert trying to release it.

[Beans]

... It seems more like plastic to me than rubber, but that could just be age.

It is plastic.

[FI Spyder]

That adjustable stop is (hard) rubber on mine. Going from memory, You adjust the link to make contact with upper stop, then adjust the lower stop until it makes contact, then add a certain amount so the motor is actually driving the assembly into it. Don't have the adjustment steps with me. I'll see if Ii can come up with it later.

[FI Spyder]

Lift adjustments. First, adjust link to were assembly just touches up stop. Extend another 4.5 flats and secure lock nuts. Move to low spot with down stop out of the way. Adjust down stop up till it just contacts assembly. Raise another 1.25 turns. Lock into position. This provides the required preload in the up and down positions.

I suppose another way of saying it is, as the motor drives the assembly into the stops, it also takes care of the momentum of the assembly so it doesn't overshoot the high and low points.

I made this adjustment on both sides 15 years ago (just one side was way out resulting in flickering LH light when driving at night).

[busheytrader]

Thanks all.

I’ve got a busy period work wise so I’ll try this when I get some time, after disconnecting the battery first. I don’t fancy losing a finger if the motor kicks in.

Adam

[FI Spyder]

Thanks all.

I’ve got a busy period work wise so I’ll try this when I get some time, after disconnecting the battery first. I don’t fancy losing a finger if the motor kicks in.

Adam

Yeah, that goes without saying....er, maybe that goes with saying.