Boot / Trunk Gas Struts XKC 3893

[Traindriver69]

Hi all
I have a 1981 TR7 Drop-head which I believe to be a Canley version because of the boot badge.
In the boot it has no stay to hold it up I belive it requires to gas struts to hold it up but where do they attach I cant tell and before I order anything I am just making sure.
cheers

[saabfast]

They are located under the back panel where the hinge arms are, connected to the arm at the front and the body at the forward end IIRC. I replaced mine with the side strut from an earlier model as it seemed easier (although the old gas struts are still in place).

[FI Spyder]

The strut guy in Surrey said to be sure they are installed with the rod pointing toward the front of the car.

I know you said this before but I don't think that's right. I put mine on with the shaft to the rear, the way the originals were and they have worked right for the last 9 years. Also practically speaking, you can wipe the shafts with silicone in that position. Also if you look at the Victoria British catalogue as well as Rimmers, they show them with the shaft to the rear. Perhaps in other applications but I don't think it makes a difference functionally otherwise.

[999craig]

Hi guys I was wondering if anyone had any ideas re the boot lid gas struts of maybe using some bespoke ones cos the originals are difficult to find or it looks like l might have to change the design lol thanks very much in advance for any ideas

[saabfast]

There has been discussion on this on the TR7 Owners page on FB and they are available, take a look there. I think one member was selling them on ebay previously too. I fitted a boot strut from an early car to mine some years ago (similar to the bonnet strut). The tappings are in the boot lid, just tack welded the bottom bracket to the gutter although some bolt it through.

[FI Spyder]

I had no problem getting the as struts back in 2006 but can't remember from whom, probably Victoria British as I was getting most my parts from them at the time. 13 years later still working like new. Wouldn't consider anything else as I never like the latch system. I have a friend that has a slightly older car with it and he (or someone) tried to close the trunk lid and it didn't unlatch with the result the trunk lid was warped and sits slightly higher when closed on the left side.

[Beans]

That's the problem, people think they have to push the boot lid to close it.
With the early stay, lift the boot lid slightly and it will unlatch. And you can than lower it gently.
Both my current cars came with gas struts. And I tried various new items (including up-rated factory grade) but none lasted that long.
So the old school stay for me too please

[Hasbeen]

There is a great business opportunity for someone in the UK to offer recharging of struts.

Here in Brisbane Oz [population about 3,000,000]we have at least 3 companies offering either strut recharging from a premises, or mobile recharging from a van. The company I have used have 4 vans doing mobile recharging, & are very busy.

Recharging is very simple. It requires a high pressure air pump, & a strong pressure vessel long enough to fit the strut & a sealing cap. To recharge a strut, simply put it in the chamber, & seal. Pump the chamber up to the required pressure, hold for a few minutes, then remove, the job is done. Ours require the highest pressure mu bloke has done.

The design of the seal in the strut allows the pressure in, & keeps it there. In the 17 years I have had my 7 I have had the struts recharged twice, & they need charging again soon, so a charge lasts about 5 or 7 years in old original struts.

Hasbeen

[999craig]

Hi thanks everso for the info an that seems a good plan I will look into that
Many thanks Craig.

[999craig]

Hi someone has hit on a good idea there but I think I may go with the the bonnet strut idea once fixed it’s there for good hopefully lol
Many thanks for your reply Craig.

[saabfast]

As above, the boot strut is a little different to the bonnet one in that it is a lift to release rather than having a catch to push in. If you can get a boot strut from an earlier car it also has the advantage that the top bracket fits to existing tapped holes in the boot lid. There is only the bottom bracket fixing to make.

[rugbyref1]

Recently my brother and I used some of Guy Britton's uprated struts - this was because the car it was going on had an electronic release catch and the mechanism was too heavy for the existing weakened struts … they worked really well.

I have also supplied the bottom bracket to a member who fancied the idea of the early strut - I have a couple left if anyone wants to go down that route.

[FI Spyder]

There is a great business opportunity for someone in the UK to offer recharging of struts.

Here in Brisbane Oz [population about 3,000,000]we have at least 3 companies offering either strut recharging from a premises, or mobile recharging from a van. The company I have used have 4 vans doing mobile recharging, & are very busy.

Recharging is very simple. It requires a high pressure air pump, & a strong pressure vessel long enough to fit the strut & a sealing cap. To recharge a strut, simply put it in the chamber, & seal. Pump the chamber up to the required pressure, hold for a few minutes, then remove, the job is done. Ours require the highest pressure mu bloke has done.

The design of the seal in the strut allows the pressure in, & keeps it there. In the 17 years I have had my 7 I have had the struts recharged twice, & they need charging again soon, so a charge lasts about 5 or 7 years in old original struts.

Hasbeen

That's a good idea but not one that has much traction in this "throw away the old and buy new" continent. However there is (was) a company in Vancouver that did this (met him at Van Dusen British car show). Turns out he is a Kiwi. Wonder where he got the idea from?

[prlee]

I have no problems with replacements, just got a new pair for £15 each from SGS engineering. The old ones work but just not quite as well as they did when I fitted them 10 years ago.