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Front suspension ball joint boots

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alc59
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Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby alc59 » 24 Jul 2017 12:43

At its MOT the bottom ball joints were ok, but the boots had split. Is it possible to replace the boots without removing the lower suspension link?

So far I've disconnected the steering arm and split the taper on the ball joint pin. It's a matter of how do I get the pin right out of the hub carrier so I can renew the boot.

All advice welcome
Al

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby HDRider » 24 Jul 2017 18:30

I use a long bar to lever the arm down far enough to get the stud out of the lower strut. Not too bad with the front jacked up you can place a foot on the bar and move the suspension strut with you hand. It's a lot easier than removing the sway bar.

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby saabfast » 24 Jul 2017 19:57

I do the same, 2' breaker bar across from under the chassis and over the anti roll bar (sway bar) and stand on it, then swing the strut away. Basically the reverse to put it back when you have put a new boot on. Problem these days is the rubber is rubbish, especially from ebay, change some boots on the Saab track ends and they were perished 3 months later! Good luck.
Alan
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alc59
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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby alc59 » 25 Jul 2017 15:57

Thanks for the good advice.
I put the car up on axle stands on both sides to reduce the torsion on the anti roll bar.After splitting the taper there was no problem in pushing the lower link down with a meaty bit of wood to release the taper pin from the link.

The ball joint splitter I used has bent the thin metal washer under the top of the rubber boot on each side. Are replacement washers available? I've straightened it up to a fashion, but I'm half inclined to simply leave it out.

I presume you clean out the dirty grease and fill it all up with new grease.

Best wishes
Al

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby saabfast » 25 Jul 2017 20:05

Can't say I recall a thin washer, can you just flatten it out again? The boot can be packed with MS3 grease (or probably any really, it is not under pressure like a wheel bearing) but check for wear in the ball joint. They have reputation for wearing and getting sloppy. I would not clean too much out of the ball joint as it might be difficult to pack again. Changing them generally needs a press.
Alan
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busheytrader
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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby busheytrader » 25 Jul 2017 21:51

+1 on the rubber boots being rubbish. It's not just ebay but some of the reputable suppliers.

I had been changing them before every MOT as they cracked up even with minimum mileage some years. Smearing the external surface with red rubber grease has helped them last a couple of years recently.

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby Cobber » 26 Jul 2017 10:45

alc59 wrote: pushing the lower link down with a meaty bit of wood


I'm glad you used a meaty bit of wood, rather than a woody bit of meat! :lol:
"Keep calm, relax, take a deep breath, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

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FI Spyder
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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby FI Spyder » 26 Jul 2017 15:48

busheytrader wrote:Smearing the external surface with red rubber grease has helped them last a couple of years recently.


I soak them in Maguiar's rubber and vinyl restorer 24 hours or so before installation, then wipe them dry and install. Not sure how much it helps (it seems to) but it can't hurt.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

alc59
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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby alc59 » 26 Jul 2017 17:51

I've got my new ones from balljointboots.co.uk, who were suggested on TR Register forum a few years ago.
They seem a very small firm - don't apear to be VAT registered. Good service.

I hope they last, but having done the job once with the help of forum advice the prospect of having to do them again isn't worrying.

Al

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby alc59 » 21 Aug 2017 20:13

So while doing this I saw that with the suspension fully extended there was a split in one of the strut bellows at the root of one of the corrugations. At the moment I've taken the view that in normal running extension the split will close up, and that there was plenty of time to think about fixing it.

What do others think?
Al

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby busheytrader » 21 Aug 2017 22:05

If you mean the rubber gaiters that protect the shock absorber from road dirt etc I wouldn't risk it myself. They can tear and disintegrate from a small slit. A pair of my shox wore out prematurely because of it.

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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby saabfast » 21 Aug 2017 22:16

Probably depends on how much, how far and where you drive it. I had the strut gaiters perish and fall apart after about 5 years with very limited driving/mileage. I did run for a year or two with them pretty tatty as they did not seem to affect the MOT. Was finally moved to change them when chunks of old original bump stops started falling out of the holes. The last set of gaiters seem to be lasting longer (not that I have looked for a while but seemed OK at the MOT in April), the poly bump stops should see me out - I hope!
Alan
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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby manny » 24 Aug 2017 17:28

alc59 wrote:I've got my new ones from balljointboots.co.uk, who were suggested on TR Register forum a few years ago.
They seem a very small firm - don't apear to be VAT registered. Good service.

I hope they last, but having done the job once with the help of forum advice the prospect of having to do them again isn't worrying.

Al


Good day

I am in the process of replacing the all the boots at the front end- i have contacted the company above - but he has no reference - which sizes do i get?

Ta

Manny
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alc59
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Re: Front suspension ball joint boots

Postby alc59 » 28 Aug 2017 19:13

I used size 3, which they suggest for the suspension joint, and it fitted fine. I don't know which size for the track rod ends - either size1 or size2. Suggest you measure up and take it from there. Alternatively buy both - they cost next to nothing.

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