Head Honcho (Cylinder Head removal tool)

[Dave Dyer]

Hi Chaps,

Its that old old story of trying to remove the 2.0 litre cylinder head and failing.
After soaking the studs over a few days and using 2 nuts tightened together I managed to snap the top of the stud off. I thought "game over", then after a bit of searching on here I came across the Head Honcho. This is something I need to make if I'm going to remove the head and save it.

Has anyone on here made one? and the question I have is do you use big diameter bolts to push down on the remaining studs, or do you use the same diameter bolts as the head studs and push down and through the head.

Using bigger bolts would have more force, but a very short travel and using thinner bolts would have less force but much more travel. Which is best?

Thanks,
Dave

[Jolyon39]

Hi Dave,

I am wondering if people know what this tool is, perhaps you could amend your heading to include that it is for removing TR7 heads?? (also removes heads on Stags)

I have one, its somewhere but not used so buried in the "shed"

I must have drawings somewhere....... give me a few days to find them. Morley Faulkner made it for me and you can PM him here or get me to contact him for you.

(Morley just drove his car after about an 8 year build. Lovely V8 and very very custom but he did work for Triumph competition dept so he does have the skills)

I can measure the bolts and what ever you need. I am sure the bolts are the same diameter so that they allow the head to pull up fully. They were threaded rod and I used a couple of lengths I think.

[Jolyon39]

Built for me by Morley Faulkner using drawings sent to me from the USA.

Apparently a USA club member designed it and they built a couple which were rented out to members. The USA name for it is Head Honcho

http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/head- ... ction.html

[Jolyon39]

[Jolyon39]

[Jolyon39]

[Jolyon39]

Here is a photo of the original USA Kit as they loan it out to members

Here is the web site with photographic instructions http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/head- ... ction.html

[Dave Dyer]

Thank you Jolyon for the information and close up pictures. It certainly gives me something to get started with.

The link was also very interesting.

Just a couple of questions, do you know the thread size of the bolts and is there welded nuts on the underside of the plate. Also what is the thickness of the metal plate?

Thanks,
Dave

[Jolyon39]

The bolts (threaded rod actually) are the same size as the holes in the head so that they can pass through.

The threaded rods have a drilled recess in the end so a ball bearing stays centered in the end of the rod. You drill similar into the head stud.

The threaded rods go through a captive nut that is welded to the plate.

The plate is about 10mm thick (maybe more?) but let me go back to my shed and mic it up

I will get the thread size but just match one up to common threaded rod, I think that is your real issue

[DutchTriumph]

Other topic about head honcho
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23726&p=241386#p241386

[Dave Dyer]

Yes, I did see that post, its what made me want to build one.
And it raised the question for me as to the size of the bolts, you say yours are 18.8mm, so they would only push the studs flush with the head, about 30mm of movement, but that might be enough to free the head?

Jolyons go through the head, so the studs are 7/16 UNC, which according to Google (other search engines are available!) are 11.7mm in diameter. Are they fine thread? I would think the finer the pitch the better. But as you say, trying to find threaded rod and not soft stuff is not looking easy.

Using a ball bearing seems a good idea, the bolts can rotate and stay located. Drilling the tops of the studs doesn't look easy.

Dave

[DutchTriumph]

I was thinking to remove the welded nuts, and use a metal strip with threaded holes instead. Thick bolts will bent less, so are better to start with.
After the studs are level with the head I can use a different strip with smaller bolts, that will go through the head.
I want to screw a bush on the bolts, that will fit over the studs.

[Jolyon39]

Hi,

Just ask the American club if they have any suggested mods because they have been using them for years.

Centre punch the top of the studs and then drill to create a dish for the ball bearing, its not a huge drilling job

The main plate and exhaust straps are 38th inch or 10mm. The two curved braces are 1/2 inch or 12.5mm

Even lifting it a bit is a huge step forward, I have seen photographs of people suspending the head from the roof and just adding more weight to the block..... with no effect. So even lifting it 1 inch, putting back down and then lifting 2cm with this tool again and again will free up the bolts..... either way it will save you from hanging it from desperate measures.

[Hasbeen]

Just a side note on this problem.

When I removed the couple of heads I have done, one cars studs jhad screwdriver slots in the top, & 3 studs came out easily by screwdriver, some studs came out with locked nuts, & all the rest with a nut welded to the stud. One the weld broke, & had to be re welded.

However, once started, even half a turn they all screwed out by fingers, no tools required. I checked after the head was gone, & found the threads were all above the block, when the stud hit the bottom of the hole.

The difficulty in removing the studs is because they lock into the bottom of the hole, when the head nut is tensioned.

Does anyone have a system for preventing the studs locking into the block in this way. If the studs did not lock they should be easily removed, & the head would be free.

Hasbeen

[Dave Dyer]

I like your way of thinking Peter, large bolts to get it moving and swap to thinner to remove fully. This is probably the way I will go.

Jolyon, I think you're right with the drilling job, the studs must be of softish metal if I managed to snap the top off one, with ease. You shocked me with the metal thickness, I need a rethink, I was thinking 6-8mm, but no problem, it will just cost a bit more.

Hasbeen, an interesting theory, something that gets over looked, you must be thinking outside the box! I'm not sure what can be done about it, maybe hold the stud with a screw driver and turn the nut, but that won't work using sockets.

I'm still looking for a supplier of matched stud bar and long enough nuts of the right diameter and toughness and I thought that would be the easy part!

Dave