I always thought that would be a problem with those things so I never bought them. Any time I want to do some work on the front end where the load can be on the tires and I want to do it quick I use 2"x12" treated fir with one end up on cinder blocks with regular brick on its side half way along with a piece of 2x4 screwed on the end to prevent the car going over (to far). This gives a short length of 2x12 that isn't supported as the car rolls up and when it's at the end it is nearly over the end block. I've used this for all my cars for past 37 years for changing oil, coolant etc. As my particular driveway is pretty sloped, the car is pretty level when the car is up on the ramp. As I had the stuff lying around it cost me nothing but if bought it would be not expensive.
When in the garage (flat) and I want the car up off the ground to rotate tires or do anything non fluid related I put the car up on jack stands. As my jack is a cheap one and not low profile I first drive up on pieces of 2x12 to get the extra 1 1/2" so the jand will fit under the K support with some supporting wood for protection and help distribute the lifting force a bit. A number of years ago I did buy some combo jack stands/hydraulic lifts that in total will give up to 21" of lift so I can drop the transmission out from under the car and roll it out (when I changed the clutch). They were $36 each on sale and paid for themselves when I changed the clutch.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT