Gear stick banging up and now

[Monkeyzak]

I've just noticed the bushes aren't flat. They are sort of recessed. What's the right way to put them in?

[busheytrader]

one side of the 8 bushes are flat. The other side have a "collar" that locates them in to place and prevents metal to metal contact between the gearbox, remote housing and mounting bracket. Once under the car it'll fall in to place.

Hopefully you've got narrow fingers. On mine half of those attached to the rear gearbox housing had fallen away, the other half were rotten. Further back the others were softening up and out of shape. Poybushes took their place.

Adam

[Monkeyzak]

Sadly my hands aren't tiny. Maybe ask my wife to do it!!

I wish id got the poly ones too.

[frankman]

I bought these nylon bushes years ago - hope ar not to stiff - I hope they are not too hard

Next Year I will know

[FI Spyder]

I bought these nylon bushes years ago - hope ar not to stiff - I hope they are not too hard

Next Year I will know

I've had the same (similar) ones in for 10 years now. As there was now rubber bushings initially, it went from stirring porridge to nice and solid. No bad properties. Gear shift knob does show engine vibration at idle but not a big deal as rubber probably does as well.

[Monkeyzak]

That's 6 of the 8 bushes in. I just can't get a socket set or spanner into the last one. My socket sets too big and i cant get purchase with a spanner. Have the gearbox mount off, diff etc so just want it done. It's the top ones nearest the front of the car. .

[Beans]

A small ¼" socket set or a ratchet type ring spanner are ideal for this job.
A so called half moon spanner might also be useful here.

[Monkeyzak]

Thanks for all the pictures and posts.

I'll get a smaller socket set tomorrow and try finish it. Last ones siezed and chewing so covered in wd40 and have a go tomorrow. This is the hardest job I've ever done on a car. I think ive learned a lot if i were to do it again.

Bummed it's not finished but hey that's 75% better than it was before.

Thanks again. I wouldn't even have attempted it without all the great posts and advice.
Cheers.

[Beans]

Oohh ... and don't forget to use an anti seize compound on the threads of the bolts to prevent galvanic corrosion between alloy and steel.

[busheytrader]

and ..... I made the mistake of bolting everything back together without realising that the gearstick had become detached from the gearbox selector shaft when replacing the bushes....... I had to take everything apart again to reinstall it.

[Milanoverde]

I don't remember having a problem when I did mine. If you do it with the gearbox in neutral, you can move the bushing position as you do it with the shift lever.
If all else fails, you can do this from in the car if you unbolt and move the console. Also not a big deal.

[Monkeyzak]

I didn't know you could move it when doing it. I thought it had to be in neutral. Also didn't know you could access it with the centre console out. I'll! Try both later.

Thanks

[Monkeyzak]

Sadly I've messed up. I couldn't get the last bolt out. It was totally siezed. Even with lots of wd40. I've totally chewed it and can't get it off. So now can't get a fixing on it

I took the centre console out to try do it from above. Removed the steel plate at the gear lever but it was bonded underneath and i didn't want to burst it so i put it all back together.

Short of taking it to a garage. Any ideas of anything else i could try. Of course it was the last bolt!!? Also is it a special bolt that fixes it as i don't want to refit the damaged one.

[Beans]

These bolts are (or should be ...) M8x40mm for the front ones and M8x30mm for the rears.
All with standard metric thread.

[FI Spyder]

There are special sockets you can get to remove rounded bolt heads. The harder they turn the tighter they grip. You don't want to turn it so hard you break it off. Patience is key. All though this is likely due to dissimilar metals I harken back to the time I was removing my seats. The first 7 bolts came out looking like brand new from the factory. The 8th was rusted in. Why that one on a no rust car was an anomaly, like some one split coke on it and the acid started the rusting process. I was determined not to break it off regardless how long it took. Soaking it in penetrating oil and letting it sit for 20 minutes to an hour while I did other things, it took me a full week working it back and forth before it came out. A electrolytic seize can be more problematic. I saw a head stud that was so bonded to a head that the aluminum in the head swirled around the stud under the pressure of removal.

With limited space it may have to be removed (or at least transmission dropped a little to get more purchase). An air ratchet might aid you in providing some vibration to help break it free. That's all I got off the top of my head.