Replacing front dampers anything else to consider replacing?

[MikeRotherham]

I'd like to replace the front dampers and wondered if whilst the struts were off the car and dismantled should I also replace some other bits as well?
The gaitors appear to be be in reasonable condition and with the current problem of poor quality replacements of certain rubber items might be best to leave them alone.
Anything else to consider as well?
The reason for the replacement is the MOT is due and one of the struts has oil leaking.
There is another reason for the replacement however, when I drive the car I have alway been disappointed with the way the car handles and would like to if possible experience how a TR7 would have handled and driven when it left the factory or as near to it using modern replacement parts.
The previous owner purchased standard springs and KYB uprated dampers in 2006 which I'm assuming were subsequently fitted to the car. Do I replace with the dampers with the uprated ones again or stick to standard?
I'm happy with the way the car looks so not looking to lower it.
The front subframe is mounted on orange polybush mountings the car also has the strut top bearing conversion both fitted before I bought the car.
I'd welcome any suggestions.

Regards
Mike.

[FI Spyder]

Make sure the upper bump stop is there (mine was missing as well as most of the rest of the rubber parts). I used new regular springs and gas KYB'S as I was hitting every bump stop on the California catalytic cage before.

[busheytrader]

As you're asking......in addition to Spider

UKC3446 - the rubber boots that protect the lower ball joint, but as you said the quality of new rubber stuff ones can be shocking. I've coated my latest ones with red rubber grease in an attempt to make the last longer.

TKC1205 - Top strut mounting rubbers

All the anti roll bar and track control arm bushes if not already changed to poly. (I removed the arb when I last changed my shocks)

Have a look at the inside top of the turrets for rust whilst the struts are out.

Cheers,
Adam

[Hasbeen]

My 7 is at stock ride height, has stock, but retempered springs, & the shocks are very near stock, with all medium polly bushes. The only major change I have made is 30% stiffer anti roll bars, on both ends. On club runs through the twisties, I have no trouble keeping up with all the much modified Triumphs used for track days, & club racing.

I think this makes a more & more useful improvement to the handling of a road going 7 than anything else, & the car does not become a bone shaker.

Hasbeen

[MikeRotherham]

Thanks for your replies and comments have been noted.

At least one ball joint boot will need to be replaced.

How do I test the ball joints themselves for play and how do I repack them? There appears to be no mention in the Haynes manual.

Which grease will I need to use would LM grease be ok?

Regards

Mike.

[FI Spyder]

Why does only one ball joint need to be replaced? I would replace them in sets, like shocks. Ball joints are sealed and don't need greasing.

[MikeRotherham]

Hi FISpyder,

I didn't explain myself clearly.
How do you check the ball joint for wear?
You've answered the question as to does it need greasing.
When replacing the dust cover UKC3446 should it be packed with anything? At least one looks rotten and needs replacing.

[busheytrader]

Hi Mike,

As far as I'm aware, the ball joint is considered a sealed unit. I add some LM grease to the ball joint when replacing the dust cover as some grease always comes out with the old one.

I raise the front on axle stands and with someone else's foot on the brake pedal, grab a front wheel at various positions and shake it horizontally and vertically to show up and wear in the bushes or ball joints. A pry bar also helps check for vertical wear in the ball joint.

I'm still on the original ball joints but have gone through several pairs of dust covers. Even with low mileage these days the outside rubber surface just cracks up after a year or two.

[FI Spyder]

Checking for wear initially, with the car on jackstands (or better a lift) take a large pry bar and put it under the tire and lift it up (but not so much as to lift the car off the stand) so you can see if there is any play. Noticed in my Tercel manual (which where I'm at the moment with my restoration and has similar front suspension), if the ball joint is not connected put a nut on it and see how much torque is required to turn it in its socket. Not sure of the measurement off the top of my head but you get the idea of how it's measured. Speaking of loose ball joints I'm reminded of the time I saw a '91 Integra (like mine) where the ball joint was so worn out that it pulled out of the socket and as it's a structural mounting point pulled the right axle out of the transmission collapsing the right suspension. She was lucky it happened turning right at a stop sign rather than on the highway at speed. Scary.

[MikeRotherham]

What do people use to remove the ball joint castle nut?

The bottom of the strut prevents using a standard sized socket because it's too tall.

Also best way to hold the hub to prevent damage when attempting to loosen the castle nut.

[MikeRotherham]

Sorted this by gripping the castle nut with some ViceGrips and hit that with the side of a hammer.

After 3 days of marinating the nut in Plus Gas it finally gave in!

[sonscar]

Good quality open end spanner,loosen before removing steering tie rod?.Steve

[Steve @ SandS]

Sorted this by gripping the castle nut with some ViceGrips and hit that with the side of a hammer.

After 3 days of marinating the nut in Plus Gas it finally gave in!

Just use a good quality ring spanner

[MikeRotherham]

I started by using a ring spanner but couldn't get enough leverage and no way I could think of attaching my breaker bar.

I think the ball joint is the original one from the factory and the nut was solid, at first.

Wonder if purchasing a set of crows foot spanners might help with this in future?

[Cobber]

Hitting the bejesus outta the ring spanner with a 4lb micrometer (hammer) often gets good results, or you can slide a bloody great pipe over the ring spanner for more leverage. Crude, but effective!...........a bit like me, really