Really hard to move her

[UKPhilTR7]

Over the last few weeks, I have noticed that my car has been a bit hard to initially move after a few days of standing still. When I pull off first of all, there is a little jolt as she seems to be sticking slightly. However, the initial movement/jolt frees it up. After that she was running all OK. I just put it down to low usage and possibly rust on the drums/shoes.

Saturday, I was messing with the carbs and decided to run her for a bit. She jolted on start up (au usual) and then while moving she seemed tight. What I mean by this is that if I went forward or back and then took my foot of the gas and in on the clutch, she would not roll as much as she used to. She would seem to come to an immediate stop.

Yesterday, while using the colourtune I tried to drive her a bit and she would hardly move. I had to put a lot of power down to move her a very little way. She did seem to move easier in reverse, but going forward (well not going forward) was very hard.

I will be jacking her up soon to see which wheels are not free flowing and then possibly looking at the springs on the rear drums to see if any have gone. I would not think it is rust though as she is moving more than she did the previous years and the weather conditions are the same.

Has anyone come across this before, where the car has stopped moving so quick or has anyone got any ideas?

[prackers]

My guess would be the onset of seizing/sticking rear brake cylinders or front calipers and should be obvious once jacked up.

[FI Spyder]

I agree with Prackers, I had something similar with my '91 Integra. My wife had mentioned it as at the time she was driving the car. It showed up not so much as hesitant to move but a squeal from the rear brakes. On investigation it was the piston in the rear disc brake that was seized and while it would press against the disc under brake fluid pressure it would not release once the pressure was released resulting in the squeal (and premature wear of the brake pad). I ended up replacing the calipers as they couldn't be repaired without special expensive tool. This would be equivalent to rear cylinders freezing up (or even front pistons). Jacking up the car and turning the 4 wheels by hand should show up the offending wheel(s).

[skertonman]

Just recently had to unseize the handbrake quadrants inside the drums. They both started to seize up pretty quickly.

Handbrake feeling pretty slack when pulling on should've been the pointer to the problem.

Maybe it's a reminder for me to use it more than I'm doing at the moment.

[busheytrader]

Hi Phil,

I had something similar happen to me a year or two ago. The lining parted company from the shoe and jammed itself against the drum as it rotated towards the brake shoe's pivot point.




Did either of your drums feel warm after driving the car? It could be perished rubber brake lines that have collapsed internally and not allowing the shoes to retreat from the drums surface.

otherwise I guess you won't know for sure until you take the brake drums off.

Hope this helps,

Adam

[UKPhilTR7]

Cheers for the replies guys. I was initially thinking that it could be the front breaks as with out fantastic handbrakes the car can still be driven. However, I had not thought of the shoe pad coming away from the shoe and jamming the wheel. That would make sense as to why she is able to move slightly better in reverse.

[Hasbeen]

Check the brake hoses.

If they are original they are probably so full of gunk they will transmit the high application pressure, but the springs on the drums are not strong enough to pull the shoes off, or the return pressure on the callipers is not enough.

I have yet to buy a 7 that did not have the pistons corroded solid in the wheel cylinders, or the rear hose particularly, not letting the shoes release properly after the wheel cylinders were repaired.

I have always found that the wheel cylinders freeze in the off position, not causing drag, just no rear brakes.

Hasbeen

[busheytrader]

I replaced my brake hoses with Goodridge braided hoses. They have a teflon inner tube which shouldn't perish and collapse as easily as the originals. (Much better pedal feel as well) Nothing lasts forever though.

I've replaced 2 sets of wheel cylinders in my time, all seized in the off position and given away by leaks. I don't know whether the rust starts from the piston on the inside or outside or the casing itself. I just read an article advising the application of rubber or copper grease to the piston and casing under the rubber boots to prevent piston seizure.

[jeffremj]

I rarely use the handbrake because of this problem - it also happens with our newer cars. Just leave it in gear when parked up.

[UKPhilTR7]

I also replaced all my brake hoses with Goodridge a few years ago. As my girl is parked in a flat garage most of the time I also do not use the handbreak or leave her I gear. I have had bad experiences with a car being unable to move.

One thing I did notice a few weeks ago was that level in the break reservoir has gone down a little. I thought it was so I put some tap to show the original level and over a few weeks it went down about a cm or two. The funny thing is that I cannot see any signs of a leak along the lines. I think jacking her up this weekend will show.

[Hasbeen]

Could be leaking into the booster Phil, but that wouldn't explain it being hard to move.

Hasbeen

[busheytrader]

One thing I did notice a few weeks ago was that level in the break reservoir has gone down a little.

That brake shoe I posted had brake fluid contamination. The slave cylinder was weeping ever so slightly and the bonded lining had soaked it up. I guess if it had riveted linings then it would have stayed in place but the adhesive thought otherwise.