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gauge reads full

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dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 21 Jun 2013 17:47

Been following this thread as I was replacing a leaky tank on the car I recently got. The gauge has also been reading wrong when I got it.
Guess what, set up the new tank, plugged in the wires and the gauge says full. Unplug the gauge wire (green/black) at the sender and it reads empty, so same symptoms as Dycecooper.
Moving the arm up and down has no effect but the low fuel light seems to work correctly. Tried a spare sender and also a new one with the same result. I already have the carpets out and the wires look good all the way as far as I can tell so I guess its the gauge?
I need to get the axle back in next so I can at least move rhe car then I'll have a look at the pesky gauge.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 21 Jun 2013 18:12

When I had my sender out to seal the tank, I put an ohm meter on two contacts (live and common) and when moving the arm up and down you will see the resistance change smoothly. Connecting the meter to the other connector you get no reading until arm is fully down (low fuel light will come on when resistance goes to zero). I had put the sender in molasses/water to get the little rust off the body. I wasn't getting a smooth increase/decrease on the ohm meter any more but when I put it in and filled the tank it worked fine as the gasoline filled the sender body.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 21 Jun 2013 20:06

Spyder, Thanks I did the ohm meter test before I put the sender in the tank which is why I was surprised when the gauge went to full as soon as I connected it up.
I also tested the other senders I have at the same time for comparison and they all gave similar readings. Disconnect the green/black and the gauge goes to zero. All the wiring I can see in the car (not been into the dash yet) looks good so that is suggesting to me its the gauge itself?
I have a spare gauge so that will be the next step but I need to get the car rolling first.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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stevie_a
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Postby stevie_a » 21 Jun 2013 21:32

<font color="teal"><b>I have a smiths temp gauge ( had to cut back of dash but works great)

thinking of doing the same to fuel gauge.</b></font id="teal">

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

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dycecooper
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Postby dycecooper » 21 Jul 2013 15:02

Update on my fuel gauge!

Gauge was reading full whenever ignition. was turned on, I had tried all the usual logical things but its a TR7 and they defy logic do I too fitted a gauge from my spare cluster, I now have a working fuel gauge!

gaz
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Postby gaz » 21 Jul 2013 15:27

I guess it was the gauge then Stevie.....

www.classiccarrunblackpool.co.uk

1981 DHC 2.0 Litre
1980 DHC pedal car


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stevie_a
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Postby stevie_a » 24 Jul 2013 13:50

<font color="teal"><b>What ohms does the tr7 fuel gauge work

waiting on the end of auction on one I like it runs US type sender 240/30 ohms

does this make sense.</b></font id="teal">

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

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